Shaun
Yes the figures in my last post were very much back of the envelope. I note from your post on storage that you are considering buoyancy in conjunction with storage problems. Therefore I thought I would provide some more accurate numbers. The volumes in litres listed below were calculated from measurements taken on the boat this weekend.
Forepeak locker 124
V Berths lockers 454
Starboard settee berth locker 89
Port settee berth locker 56
Settee berth aft lockers 209
Settee berth side lockers 57
Cockpit lockers 761
Locker under cockpit 385
Total 2,133
My best guess at the weights of various major components are:
Mast 90
Rigging 30
Cabin/Windows 80
Deck 200
Pushpit/Lifelines 25
Woodwork 120
Outboard 26
Additional Ballast 100
Ballast 1136
Hull 819
TOTAL 2626
FLOODED WEIGHT = 1,999
(Total weight of all components above the flooded waterline plus the submerged weight for components below waterline)
(The only weights that have a high degree of certainty are the designed displacement, the ballast and the weight of the outboard. The estimates for other components might be way out. Other opinions would be welcome).
The good news is that so far without loosing any interior volume the positive buoyancy would be 133 K, but that's not enough, so what else can be done?
Build locker between V berths 130.0
Raise settee berth by 100 mm 133
Raise V Berth by 150 mm 328
Build lockers along side of V Births 152
Build locker in head or install holding tank 25
Total Additional 768
The grand total is now over 900 KG of reserve bouyancy. This should provide almost 3 1/2 inches of freeboard. Just how high the boat will float will depend upon how much is stored in the boat. You can roughly work this out if you know where the designed waterline of your boat is. A Top Hat will sink 1 inch for every 586 pounds (266 KG) of weight. So if your boat normally floats 2 inches below that waterline you must have over 532 kg of additional gear and stores on board. Time to chuck something overboard! Remembering that all objects submerged but outside sealed lockers will have reduced weigh once the boat is flooded. For example petrol is significantly lighter than water but a 20 litre tank of petrol stored in the cockpit locker will add 14.74 KG (plus the weight of the tank) but the same tank stored on the cockpit floor will float when the boat is flooded and add no weight.
Obviously there are differences between models, for example Mk 1's have lockers above the berth, so this improves the available locker volume but limits the volume under the bunks because you need to be able to get your feet under the over-head (or should I say over-foot) lockers. So the differences sort of cancel out. Obviously an inboard motor presents a different range of issues.
For most of us VHF's, EPIRB's and life jackets are sufficient for coastal trips, or for longer voyages the easy pragmatism of a life raft is the usual way to go. However, I think the issue is as much about self sufficiency as safety - being able to save yourself rather than passively waiting for rescue. For anyone willing to do the work having an unsinkable boat is not only more self reliant it is a much much safer option than a life raft. The question is, how hard is it to do? Building new sealed lockers is not that hard, the challenge is in constructing the water tight access doors. With around 20 required this is not a trivial exercise and how best to do it is perhaps a post for another day.
For anyone interested in an example of a quick and easy solution see Roger Taylor's web site
http://thesimplesailor.com. He made his 20 ft junk rigged Corabee unsinkable in 10 days and is confident enough that he refuses to have an Epirb. It reminds me of the story of Blondie Hastler who refused to have a two way radio on his junk rigged folkboat. He was asked what he would do in an emergency and he replied that he would drown like a gentleman. Hey! see the pattern emerging here? Those guys....... those crazy individualist and their junk rigged boats!
Cheers
Keith