Standing rigging

[Funfloating]

Hi all

Does anyone here know the cost to replace all the standing rigging on a Top Hat?

[Lord Chunderguts]

Hello chief, some people have mentioned a figure up to $6000. It becomes a lot cheaper if you buy all the bits yourself. You'll want to use 6mm 1x19 wire (not to be confused with 7x19, which is flexible and much weaker). You'll need to measure each piece of rigging, because some THs may have a slightly shorter or longer mast, and some have the shrouds going to the outside of the hull, while others go to the inner side deck, right beside the cabin. So don't trust someone else's measurement, your boat may be a few inches different.
Once you've bought the wires and turnbuckles (others here may be able to recommend brands or sizes, I have seen turnbuckles at Whitworths, I don't know if they're suitable) You can get the wires made to size in just a few minutes (according to sailors in the US) (I'm halfway through a slab of beers so can't remember precise terms) but there are companies that can swage the cable for you. Now you have to choose whether to pay a rigger to tension it up, or do it yourself. Be warned, some riggers do a bad job.
If you do it yourself, you want the shrouds at 15 percent of the wire's breaking strain, and the stays at 20 percent. If your wire stretches by 1 percent, it breaks. Therefore, shrouds need to stretch 1.5mm per metre of length, stays 2mm per metre of length. If they stretch by a centimetre they'll snap. It's considered impossible to be able to snap them by hand tightening.
So if you are handy with tools you can tension your own rig. You'll need to re-tension it after a few weeks or months, as the cables will stretch slightly.
Be aware that many "professional" people, such as riggers, often do a bad job, so DIY is often better
There are guides online as to tensioning your own rig, but the beer is having an effect, so I'll have to add more later. Cheerio!

[Funfloating]

Thanks for the info. I guessed around that price. I have had heard of people doing their own, would be handy to have the know how. I have got an advanced rigging license but no experience with boats, will try find more out on how to do it. Either way the price is not too bad.

[Miker]

Before spending lots of cash on re-rigging, check out the existing rigging very carefully. If you're experienced, you can do it yourself. If not, have someone else appraise it. You may be pleasantly surprised.

Be warned though, if the rigger thinks he can make a dollar, he will give you so much bad news you'll run for your life.

[steve]

A mate bought a 5mm forestay about a year ago for $145. This included supply of the wire, terminals and Ronstan closed body turnbuckle, and installation of the terminals on the wire. The turnbuckle would have been about $50, so about $100 for wire with terminals installed on it. This was in Melbourne, by a reputable supplier. You would have to hunt around to get this price. Keep away from riggers based at boatyards as they seem to charge more.

So for a Top Hat with six shrouds, forestay and split backstay (so 10 wires in total) the total would be about $1000 plus $400 if you are replacing the turnbuckles.
Of course these prices exclude all work at the boat, which could cost a few thousand if you get a rigger to do it or get a crane to lower the mast.

There was mention of 6mm wire in an earlier post (and also in posts several years ago on this website). It appears to me that 6mm is unnecessary and 5mm is more than adequate. I base this opinion on:-
Compass 28s, which are larger and 30% heavier than Top Hats, use 5mm.
Contessa 26s, which are a similar size and weight to Top Hats, use 5mm.
Eric Hiscock (a famous author from the mid 20th century) recommends in his books that the shrouds on one side should, together, be able to lift 1.3 times the weight of the boat. 5mm wire comfortably exceeds this recommendation.

steve

[Lord Chunderguts]

Steve, you 'ave 'elped me out tremendously. My mk1 has 5mm everywhere except for lowers, which are 4mm. I'm pretty certain it's the original rigging, but I was going to query this with others on the site.
I shall 'ave to check for hidden rust in the turnbuckles, but I'm glad to hear that my 5mm can stay. When I saw that the breaking strain for 5mm is 2000 kg and 6mm is 2900kg, I began to doubt the need for 6mm - it's extra weight aloft plus likely extra tension on all fittings...Thanks chief, Cheerio!

[Shaun]

I'd also look into the Stalok fittings and turnbuckles, while a bit more more of a cost at first, you can do the whole process yourself, so you know it's done right, and the fittings are re-usable.
I get the Stalok's fittings at a slight discount if anyone's interested.
Cheers

[Wigwam]

Would be very interested to hear about your Stalok fittings connection Shaun. My standing rig passed inspection last check (though about time for another good thorough look) but will have to install new lifelines and was looking at those fittings. Didn't dive deep into it but was impressed by the reviews. You've got them on your boat?

[Wild Rose]

We had our rigging replaced by a shipwright at its annual slip and clean. He stepped the mast and did a heap of work on it. Went up to 6mm 7x19 . cost $2094. bit of overkill but cost was the same as if it was 5mm.

[Funfloating]

$2094 for 6mm replacement sounds ok to me as a ten to twelve year investment. Was there a reason for the 6mm upgrade?