Forward hatch fastening on Mk2

[Homestar]

I was very fortunate and found an excellent Mk2 for sale at a sensible price and after the usual pre-purchase checks bought her.

I have her moored at a club close to home and while, like everyone else, I am waiting for the current halt to recreational boating to end I am doing all I can to make sure I am ready to go when the time comes. I fully aware Top Hats are excellent cruising boats, however I would like to race her in a couple of the series the club has ( half day and afternoon/tight races ) and my crew from my 12ft skiff days is keen to crew with me.

My problem is the club requires Cat 5 and/or 5N safety level, which I don’t have a problem with, however the local safety officer isn’t happy with the fastening method currently in use - he believes it will take too long for a “release and escape” from the V berth section, the hatch is fastened and unfastened internally.

I have spent the day trying to find a photograph or description of what the original fastening was like. I would prefer not to have to start adding substantial amounts of additional material to either the hatch or under deck / V berth ceiling or as has been suggested remove existing hatch, fill in resulting hole with very strong GPR And then fit a modern hatch.

If anyone has photos or info on what fastening was used on the production Mk2’s or suggestions I would greatly appreciate them.

[Shaun]

Maybe a couple of blocks of timber epoxied on, one on the hatch the other on the inside of the cabin, and one of these over-centre latches?? https://www.whitworths.com.au/stainless ... latch-flat

Or the right hand thread of a jaw turnbuckle onto each saddle, and through the timber batten, fastened with a wing nut?
Cheers

[Homestar]

Thanks for the great idea Shaun, as well as the really useful link.
I ordered two today, I am sure I will find a use for the spare one.

Cheers
Michael

[Phillip]

Then maybe you could reconstruct your chain locker like a Mark 1.
I find that very little water gets into the chain locker and I also have a drain tube attached into the rear compartment, where I keep an extra 60m of 12mm Double braid attached to the chain, that I can drain from time to time. I do rarely have to check the chain part while cruising when the chain is all out and use a sponge for any water. Note the plastic cutting board to prevent wear on the hull.

This is the deck view of SEAKA.

DSCF1609.JPG (893.48 KiB) Viewed 1844 times

The door to the locker which is hinged along the bottom side is not in place.

Chain locker SEAKA.jpg (417.41 KiB) Viewed 1844 times

[steve]

forehatch 1.jpg (129.71 KiB) Viewed 1816 times

Hi Michael,
The photos show an alternative way of fastening the hatch. It's easy to install and the parts are available from Bunnings. You need a fastening at each corner to make sure the hatch is sealed waterproof. Each fastening comprises a saddle bolted to the lid, a ring bolt, plywood. butterfly nut, and a nylock nut to prevent the butterfly nut falling off. The string in the photo is to help close the hatch single-handed by drawing the two fastenings together as they pass into the cabin.
You should probably check with your safety officer if he will accept this arrangement before installing it, as it is not as quick to use as the over-centre latches Shaun suggested.
An even simpler system is to have a rope attached to the lid and going down to a cleat in the cabin. I used this method for some time but, even with a rope in each corner, I could not get enough tension on the rope to compress the seal and guarantee it being waterproof. With the wing nuts in the photos you can get plenty of tension.