by Phillip » Tue Aug 06, 2019 3:00 pm
As I've been a bit slack this trip I'm posting all my blogs to date here. There is one more to come to catch up.
22-24th May.
Last Wednesday I brought SEAKA over to the LUSC wharf at Laurieton. After doing museum duty at the local museum I was interviewed by the local Camden Haven Courier paper about sailing north. On Thursday I started moving the dinghy and associated gear on board. While checking the mainsail I discovered that the boom bag zip had collapsed. A quick phone call to my neighbour sailmaker, Rohan of East Coast Sails, meant that that part of the zip that had collapsed was replaced. This turned out to be an advantage as I now had a section of zip that did up away from the mast which meant that I could contain the bulk of the mainsail at the mast without having to zip up the whole sail from the end of the boom which I have found to be difficult in a rolly sea. Returning to SEAKA I found that I would not be able to put the rigging back in place before dark so put the job of until Friday. On Friday I completed the re-rigging and brought down to SEAKA the last of the frozen food and fresh vegetables. My wife Nan then dropped me at the LUSC wharf and I motored over to my mooring in preparation of an early morning start to Port Macquarie.
25th May.
For this journey north to the Seaway I would be accompanied by several local yachts, namely SILVER LADY, BLUE MOON and LEWIE. Up at 0600 and moving by 0700 to cross the Camden Haven Inlet bar at 0730 on an ebbing tide with BLUE MOON. The seas were very flat with little wind forcing us to motor sail the whole way to Port Macquarie. At Port we anchored in the Duck Pond area only to have the RMS bloke come over and tell us we would have to move if they needed the emergency mooring. Why they put that mooring in the most popular anchorage place I’ll never know.
26th May.
We left Port Macquarie at first light and had a good run to Point Plummer when the wind dropped out and we motor sailed the rest of the way to Trial Bay arriving before dark, which was a first for me. We all anchored near the phone tower but after I had anchored one of the yachts from Port Macquarie came in and anchored on top of me so I moved right over to the eastern side of the bay. I had a quiet night except for a bit of wind chop around midnight.
27th May.
Heading north at day break we had calm conditions and for the first time I had dolphins leaping at SEAKA’s bow, I have never seen that before. Late in the day we saw whales inshore then as we were caught by the SE change, just before Coffs Harbour, I had to manoeuvre around a pod of three whales. We arrived at Coffs harbour to anchor out in the harbour, completing refuelling etc just before dark.
28th May.
We set off at 0300 for Iluka with a good wind which lasted most of the day until we were forced to motor sail the last eight miles into the Clarence River and so up to Iluka, arriving at 1530 hours. We all went to the pub for tea that night.
29th May.
A rest day today with a bit of shopping and buying 20 litres of diesel and had a bit of a clean up. By now we have had a couple of yachts in the group sail on, being bigger, or just gone their own way. We have BLUE MOON and LEWIE still with me as we sail for Byron Bay tomorrow.
30th May.
A 0400 start would turn out to be just right for us to arrive in daylight at Byron Bay. Some of the Shaggers were also sailing north so around nine yachts left the Clarence River this morning. Initially the sailing was good with averages of around 5-6 knots but as the day progress the waves steepen up and I had to move inshore to calmer waters with the westerly winds. Around midday the winds started to die again and I was forced to motor sail once again. The anchorage in Byron Bay was a bit rolly so I just had baked beans and an egg for tea.
31st May.
The others wanted to go at 0500 but I resisted and said first light which we did with a strong westerly wind blowing. This meant we were flying at 5.5-6knots plus and at one stage we did 7.2 knots. By the time we got to the Tweed River that was all gone and we were motor sailing again. I had look at going inside Cook Island but saw a heap of breaking waves in that are so went around the inner shoals to sail into Queensland. Sailing into the Seaway I had only gone 100m when I had to turn into the wake of a large stink boat, yep we are in QLD! Motored around to Bums Bay where we finally settled on the western side for the night.
1st June.
Now the reason for BLUE MOON being with us is that Shaun has sold her and delivered her, to her new owner, here at Bums Bay. After I had loaded the rejected gear from BLUE MOON Shaun would accompany me to Raby Bay where he could catch a train to Brisbane Airport to return home tomorrow. So at 1300 hours we motored out north for our overnight stop at Jacobs Well. For a start the trip was uneventful until we reached the corner at Tulleen Island. There, just as we were about to make the turn to port, with only a minimal of room between us and the north cardinal, a large stink boat going at a very fast speed overtook us to port. How he missed us I don’t know as it was over and done very quickly. Needless to say the air was a bit blue for a while! We anchored just past Jacobs Well and I did a stir fry as a farewell to Shaun.
2nd June.
Away by 0730 we got Shaun to Cleveland in Raby Bay about noon. I did some quick shopping and the Shaun went on his way. I refuelled and started back towards Russell Island but found Greg in LEWIE coming into the bay so decided to stay there for the coming strong southerly and west winds.
3rd June.
Cold wind blowing from the west so sorted out some gear and had a restful day. Caught a Snapper for tea.
4th June.
Too windy to go ashore, spent the day reading. Caught a Rock Cod, tea for the next two days.
5th June.
Went ashore in Greg’s dinghy and walked up to Cleveland to do a bit of shopping. Came back and returned ashore in afternoon to fix Greg’s dinghy and have a cold shower. Discovered that I have labelled my battery switch incorrectly so I have been running off my starter battery and not the house batteries. Made a booking to go into the Newport Marina on Friday.
6th June.
We got away at 0800 and with just the jib out and the motor running, yes not much wind again, moved north to Deception Bay. We had a good smooth until till we reached the turn point into Deception Bay where we were sailing across the swell. I anchored well in but Greg suggested that we move out a bit as low tide was still some hours away.
7th June.
At 0900 we moved into the Newport Marina. My thanks to Mandy for the god rate she gave us. Opposite me is Cal and Di of “Sailing Australia” Facebook fame. So I did the washing and refilled the water tank, some 80 litres were required. Later I went for a walk then had tea with Cal and Di. It has started to rain late this afternoon.
Third Edition:
It’s been just over 20 days since I last posted and the reason has been battery charging issues which I’m happy to say have now been resolved. At this time we are in The Narrows waiting for the weather to do her thing and the military to finish their games. I’ll explain as we go along.
We left Newport Marina at first light and headed for Mooloolaba in very light conditions [9th June]. We hadn’t gone far when we heard a very rare “Security call” asking shipping in the Caloundra area to look out for three persons in the water after their boat had sunk. Not long after that we heard the Captain of a large ship saying he could see them off his starboard side. Thankfully all were recovered alive.
Our entry into Mooloolaba was accompanied by a large schooner worth mega bucks. In the 1800s vessels of this size were common on the Australian coast. The next day [10th June] Greg [in LEWIE, an H28 sloop] and I went up to Whitworths, I needed a thicker furling line and a couple of over small items. With the food shopping and refueling completed we were ready for an early 2am start for the Wide Bay Bar.
As we left Mooloolaba [11th June] I logged onto Mooloolaba Marine Rescue as they now transfer details to Tin Can Bay Marine Rescue. Hopefully in the next couple of years they will combine all the rescue outfits in Queensland as they have in New South Wales. The winds were light again so did a bit of motor sailing to make the bar at high water. As we started to cross I was joined by two other yachts. The crossing was excellent and entering the Great Sandy Strait we were soon anchored in Pelican Bay for an early night.
The next day [12th June] we rested and waited for the tide change at 2pm to go up to Garry’s Anchorage. That morning I found that both my battery banks were really struggling, something was not right. The sail up to Garry’s Anchorage was a beauty of around 6 knots assisted by both sail and tide. On arrival I inflated the dinghy and installed the beach wheels.
I went fishing trying various lures and got some bait for the mud crab pots [13th June]. Only thing worth eating was a large cuttlefish, which I enjoyed for a change. With bait I tried a bit of night fishing but gave up after a couple of sharks, a stingray and a puffer fish. Still having power issues.
A big day [14th June] with the fishing as I finally crack the code for fishing in these estuaries. Caught a bream and large flathead, both of which I gave away. The highlight of the day was catching and releasing an 80cm flathead. Unfortunately this fish did a job on my dinghy which required an immediate puncture repair (of the largest hole) during which I discovered that the transom is coming away from the tubes, so essentially it’s done.
On our last day [15th June] in Garry’s Anchorage I caught two flathead and taught another cruiser the secret, he caught a flathead also.
On Sunday [16th June] we had an easy motor sail around to the Kingfisher resort at the top of the Great Sandy Strait. I made arrangements for the possible delivery of a new dinghy in Bundaberg. The purchase of the dinghy on Monday morning [17th June] over the phone to Whitworths was made at 8.30am and as it was very bumpy Greg and I decided to go for Burnett Heads while we still had the ebbing tide. We had a good three hour sail out to the Fairleads (to the Great Sandy Strait) before heading north into very light winds. It would take me until 8.00pm before I finally anchored at Burnett Heads.
As soon as the tide turned the next day [18th June] we set off on the three hour motor, with the odd jib out, to Bundaberg. On the way I was informed that my new dinghy had already arrived and arrangements were made to do a swap as my friend said he would take the old one to see if he could repair it.
As I first mention we had problems with charging our batteries and as we were in Bundaberg [19th & 20th June] I had the opportunity to sort the problem. After a discussion with Shaun I decided as a first move to replace the solar panel regulators for an MPPT type. I purchased one from Jaycar but we just couldn’t get it to work. After a discussion at a local Solar Panel shop I was a bit more enlightened. Seems we should have had only one regulator before, which would explain why I kept blowing fuses, which should not have even been there! With no results from the Jaycar regulator I took it back for a refund during which one of the shop assistants said “Oh we had one of them returned last week as well!” So I will be getting an MPPT eventually but not from Jaycar. I split the system through another three way switch and upgraded all the solar wiring to a heavier grade and we now have control of the system. Or so I thought!
So on Friday [21st June] with food and fuel onboard we motored down to Burnett Heads for a 2am start for Pancake Creek tomorrow. Well the winds were blowing a lot harder than predicted [22nd June] so the early morning hours were fairly hard and then between 1770 and Pancake Creek I had to do a bit of hand steering as we are still having battery problems? During that stretch of sea we were passed by a 60’ motor boat doing some 20 knots, 10 metres from me! I had to do an immediate 180 to just meet his two metre wake! Maybe he just missed me, I’ll never know!
We would spend two days [23rd & 24th June] at Pancake Creek during which Greg and I walked up to the Busted Head Lighthouse. I finally figured out that maybe the engine regulator is stuffed so rang an Auto Electrician near the Gladstone Marina and made arrangements for a service call on Wednesday.
With a gentleman’s start for a change of 7am [25th June] we sailed out for Gladstone, passing Pascal and Troy, from the YouTube Free Range Sailing site, at the outer Pancake Creek anchorage. We had a good sail into Gladstone but the wind died at the shipping channel. Once we arrived it was a hot shower first, then the washing.
The Auto Electrician [26th June] soon confirmed that the regulator was shot (probably always has been since I first owned SEAKA) and they would have one tomorrow. I then recharged all the batteries off the main power with my charger, it turned out that that was the problem with the solar panel not being able to get the batteries up to 100%. That evening four yachts got together for a BBQ at the marina.
When the Auto Electrician fitted the regulator [27th June] he also got the engine control panel charge light to work as a bonus. Now the batteries are fully charge and it’s a management problem for me to ensure they all stay at full charge.
Today [28th June] we were supposed to head north but after I had done the last few jobs it was still blowing very hard (25 knots plus) so we decided to stay another day before heading north to The Narrows.
The next afternoon [29th June] we headed north to Black Swan Island where we anchored for the night. The next morning [30th June] at 6.45am we proceeded into The Narrows. This area actually dries out to 1.2 metres above low tide so we had to get out timing right. During our passage another eight yachts also went through The Narrows.
After coming through The Narrows I anchored and went fishing during which I caught a Tailor, half which was consumed that night. The frame was used last night to catch a Mud Crab which I have been nibbling at while writing this blog.
We have two problems to get around at the moment, first is a strong wind warning for Thursday to Saturday and the closure of the Shoal Bay Military area until the 9th July. So I will retreat to Maria Inlet off The Narrows tomorrow until Sunday when I intend sailing to Great Keppel Island before heading north on the 9th or 10th July depending on the weather.
On Tuesday [2nd July] I moved out Maria Inlet where I caught up with a few jobs that had been put off for some time. That night we dragged 150m downstream, this was caused by the extremely high 5m tides we are experiencing at the moment. So the next night [3rd July] we did the same but I stayed up till 1am. At 0630 [4th July] I raised the anchor and motored 1.5 nm [Nautical Mile] upstream partly to get better holding and to also get out of the 20 plus knots winds. After anchoring three times I was sort of satisfied but not happy with where we had ended up. With the weather predictions there is the prospect of having to stay here until the 11th July. That Thursday night I hardly sleep and I certainly didn’t get a chance to go to bed! So I made the decision to go back to Gladstone [5th July] and passed back over The Narrows around 1130 hours. I then had a bash 12 nm down to Gladstone directly into the SE 20 knot wind. I had one advantage in that I was going with the tide and at some stages, when apparently completely stopped by the waves, I was still doing 6 knots. I did get caught out by the large [or so I thought, but more about that later] standing waves at the last coal berth, just before going into the marina. Once settled and fed I slept for eleven hours straight. I would stay in the marina until the morning of Monday 8th July by which time the weather had settled down.
I must relate one incident that occurred at the Marina’s monthly BBQ on the Sunday. I wondered up and decided on a coffee first. Approaching the coffee table around which a few blokes had gathered I asked if there was a que or just dive in? I got a reply from this fellow, who owns one of the 16 Riviera motor boats heading north, “No, this is a private function for the Riviera’s” My reply was blunt “Mate, this is the Marina’s monthly BBQ for ALL in the marina, it isn’t something put on especially for you blokes!” He quietly ran away with his tail between his legs. The Riviera’s have been causing a bit of strife with their wakes along the coast as they head north.
We got away around 0845 [8th July] with plenty of time for The Narrows. Two other yachts joined me for the passage, Third Man, from Port Macquarie, and Spirit. During the crossing of the shallow part of The Narrows Third Man went aground for 10 minutes until the rising tide lifted him off. That night I anchored in Barking Creek which I thought was better than Maria Inlet, apart from the thousands of biting midges the next morning [9th July]. I joined Greg in Lewie off Pacific Creek and we headed off for Great Keppel Island. To start with the sea was like a mirror, then the wind started to pick and died completely so the passage was made mainly under motor.
Now remember how I got Bombed by that 50’ motor boat between 1770 and Busted Head, well its happened again! Just as I was approaching Severdenson Bay this large motor boat, I’m talking three decks worth here, went to pass me on my left then decided no right hand would be better and cut across my stern only 10m away. He got a blast on the radio [channel 16] but was too timid to reply.
Greg and I went ashore for a swim then we both went fishing. I got an estuary cod from which we got 7 meals. The next day [10th July] was overcast and with the number of boats present, there had been over thirty the day before we arrived, we decided to head north to overnight at Stockyard Creek. When we arrived near there, Greg who was ahead of me went in but found it too rolly so we headed to Freshwater Bay arriving just on last light. Oh, almost forgot. I was bombed again! After we passed Stockyard Creek this smallish motor boat came within 15m of me, causing me once again to do a 360 through his wake. What is it with these guys, yacht envy or something more sinister? That’s the third time now!
The next morning [11th July] we were away by 0700 but with no wind it was a motor up to Pearl Bay. Greg and I were up against a lack of fuel between us as Greg should have ducked into Rosslyn Bay to refuel before we headed north. As a subsequence we need at least two whole days of sailing to ensure we get to MacKay. We didn’t get that today and we motored into Island Head Creek mid-afternoon. We will have to stop here until after Sunday as there is a stiff blow coming through. With that in mind we proceeded up the creek to the inner mooring. I spent Saturday [13th July] fishing for no result apart from losing a lure to something with very sharp teeth as all I saw was a swirl and the line went limp! On Sunday [14thJuly] afternoon we motored down to the entrance but the weather report we got and the large swell we could see sent us back to the upper anchorage.
On Monday [15th July] I did a heap of odd jobs which included throwing away cyro-vaced meat which had been treated with Sulphur by the butcher, he will be getting a visit when I get home. Today we met 83 year old Geoff on Spirit, a 36’ Clansman which he has lived on since 1986 and done the run north from Brisbane on many occasions.
On Tuesday [16th July] our early start was abandoned with a very bad weather report. Later that day we slowly sailed and motored down to the entrance in preparation for an early start the next morning. Wednesday [17th July] was a glorious day and we got in a good sail until north of Cape Townsend when the wind dropped and the tide turned against us. We have to be aware of the tides now as usually they have a 5 metre range with the flood [rising] tide heading south and the ebb [falling] tide going north. This becomes really important when we get wind against tide as it can get very rough.
During the later part of the day we were surrounded by over five large naval vessels and their aircraft from the big military exercise in Shoal Bay to our west. So with the flooding tide we were only doing 2 knots as we entered the Duke Islands heading to an anchorage on the west side of Hunter Island.
The next day [18th July] Greg was going over to Thirsty Sound to get fuel but after a terribly windy night accompanied by a chop from the west we canned that idea and had a quiet day in preparation of going out through the Lola Montes Channel tomorrow for West Bay at Middle Percy Island.
Friday, 19th July. Today I almost lost Seaka! We left the Hunter Island anchorage at 0700 and motored around to the Lola Montes Passage. I had thought that it would be quiet, being just after low tide. It looked OK but almost as soon as I moved Seaka into the Passage I found the tide against us with a series of very large overflows, some of which were over 2 metres deep and just far apart enough to accommodate Seaka. It happened so fast that I realized that I couldn’t turn back [Greg in Lewie later said the same thing] and working hard to keep Seaka in a straight line I reeved up the motor and we pushed out of the overflows at a rate of 1.9 knots. I didn’t have time to be afraid until it was all over as it happened so quickly and even now I’m a bit vague about the whole thing!
So at 0800 we finally cleared the Lola Montes Passage and with a full main and genoa struck out for West Bay on Middle Percy Island some 20 nautical miles away. This was definitely not my day as the forecast gently winds built to 25 knots. First one reef then two, then the mainsail down and the furler in a bit and then I had the motor on to get across the waves as we ended up with tide against wind. Then came my second fright of the day as a whale surfaced and blew hard along the port side [where I was sitting] of Seaka. I got such a fright that I found myself on the starboard side of the cockpit before I realized it was a whale! The whale surfaced once more and that was the last I saw of him/her. Conditions were so bad now that autohelm could not cope and I ended up hand steering for the next 5 hours until we reached West Bay.
West Bay was a relief with only a slight swell, which remained for the time we were there, instead of the normal rocking swell that they get during SE winds. Greg had been there for a while and came out and brought me ashore. We found the “A” Frame is getting really crowded with boat tags now which reflects the increase of cruising boats over the last few years. Greg and I had a swim then a creek fresh water shower, beautiful. Local Camden Haven yacht Silver Lady with Derek and Janice is here also.
The next day [20th July] we walked over to the Lagoon and saw the three yachts anchored there and met John, the Lessee of the island. We then walked up to “Andy’s Lookout” to make phone calls and check on the weather. On return to the A Frame we found that another boat from the Hastings had turned up [Third Man from Port Macquarie] so the yachts from the Hastings had a BBQ that night at the A Frame. Greg and I decided to stay while the weather is good.
That day a yacht, Sylphide, had turned up in West Bay with her furler along the deck. The Frenchwomen owner was in a bit of strife and all we could advise was to get to Mackay. She motored off the next day to Curlew Island on her way to MacKay. More to follow!
The next day Greg and I went ashore for Yoga stretching exercises, a first for me. We then walked up to Andy’s lookout to make phone calls and check on the weather again. We will go to Curlew Island tomorrow and to MacKay the day after. Before returning to Seaka a gathered and husked a few coconuts.
So on this Sunday 21st July I’m a month behind my schedule to get to Lizard Island and only two weeks ahead of my 2015 trip so I’ve made the decision to go only as far as Bowen [if we get there] but I will go to the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club get-together at Gloucester Passage on 22nd to 25th August after which we will turn for home.
Phillip.
SEAKA
A 1969 Mark 1
Home port is at Dunbogan on the Camden Haven Inlet, Laurieton NSW