Prop shaft maintenance

[Curryhouse]

Have a couple of general questions for forum members that have inboards;

1. Prop shaft gland seal repacking. The gland seal on my prop shaft is leaking more than the 'suggested' few drops per minute. Not having tightened the seal or repacked it before, I was looking for some advice on how to do these tasks. Also, any recommendations of the type of packing material to be used.

2. Just had my boat up on the hardstand for my first experience of antifouling. Overall, it went well; my assessment is that preparation is the key. Time will tell. I used Hempel antifoul paint (5l can left to me by previous owner) and had PropSpeed applied.
Anyway, whilst on the hardstand, one of the marina crew checked the prop/shaft for play and told me that a bearing needed to be replaced in the near future. Didn't have the time or money to do it this time, but wanted to find out about other's experiences who may have replaced bearings on their boat

Thanks in advance.
Cheers,

[Phillip]

Neil,
That will be a cutless bearing, suggest you go to Marong Marina and have it done there.
They did mine, but you need a deep pocket, so get a quote first.

Really need guys with the right gear to do this as its not a file and forget job.
You will need a realignment as well.

Check your rudder play as you may as well get that done at the same time seeing as you will
have to remove the rudder [to get the prop shaft out] before they put you down on the hard.

[lockie]

Neil;

If you're handy and brave enough, you can replace the cutless yourself. You will find a bunch of videos if you google it. After removing the propshaft, you use a puller made of a properly sized piece of pipe with long threaded rod and nuts and washers. This pulls the bearing out and is also used to pull the new one in.

Adjusting the gland packing is pretty easy in principle, but in practice the worst part is getting the locknut to turn since it will likely be fairly corroded. Once again, google is your friend.

Also, despite the cataclysmic warnings from many, replacing the packing in the water is quite easy and safe once you know how it all goes together. The amount of leakage with the packing removed is pretty low, especially if your last antifoul was a fair while ago, and if you have a decent bilge pump arrangement, you will have plenty of time to sort it out. If not, you can buy yourself some time and temporarily seal it up with some self-amalgamating tape.

Cheers, Graeme

[Michael]

Hi neil, and forum members. I have just purchased my Top Hat and I have been crawling all over it learning as well. I am about to slip the boat and antifoul, paint etc. My water tank pumps to the sink but then departs the boat via a drain which is connected to my bilge pump...so two pipes end up in one outlet,,,is this normal?

[Phillip]

For a cutless bearing to work it is glued in with industrial grade aridit.

It must also be turned down in a lath so as to be true for the shaft.

[Curryhouse]

Phillip, thanks for the info. I had a guy from Endeavour marine (Tim) have a quick look when I was on the hardstand. He was upfront telling me about what could go wrong with the associated costs. As you said, not cheap. While there I watched the install of a gland bearing and as you said, it was glued in. Will save my pennies for the lift-out next year. Checked the rudder play; seemed okay. Came across a previous post that described in detail the removal of the rudder. A good read that highlighted a few gotcha's. I was half hopeful that the rudder could pivot far enough to allow the prop shaft to be removed. Seems that's not the case.

Graeme, Thanks for the info you provided. I think I'll leave the gland bearing replacement to the pro's. I will though look more into tightening the stuffing box and if that fails, repacking it in-situ.

Michael, the plumbing you described on your boat is different to mine. But I know previous owners of Periwinkle have changed the plumbing layout. Wait until you get to the electrics