Going from inboard to outboard?

[Shaun]

Gday,
Im looking for peoples opinions that have gone from having an inboard to getting an outboard....
I am thinking the only realistic option is to remove my inboard & bolt an outboard on the transom, possibly a Mercury/Tohatsu 9.8hp(about 26kgs), these are the same weight as the 6 & 8hp motors for only a few dollars more.
Or a 5hp which would reduce the weight to about 20kgs which would be nice.

I am finding too many things can & do go wrong with old inboards, although the actual motor has started first time everytime, its the bits attached to it like engine mounts, exhausts, prop, stern glands, water pumps, etc, etc, etc...

Do you regret going to an outboard?

cheers

[Shaun]

A photo of the donk, aint she bewdiful!!

Arona 10hp inboard diesel

Arona186marine.jpg (94.77 KiB) Viewed 6585 times

[DESIREMK1]

Hi Shaun ,

This is one of the concerns I have with considering buying a Top Hat , that is whether to buy a Top Hat with inboard diesel where amongst other concerns is the build up of marine growth on propshaft / prop (etc) , as opposed to a stern mounted outboard which practically eliminates this problem and makes serviceability less complicated ...

That's the way i see it anyway , other forum members maybe able to point out the positives of inboard auxillery source , apart from the well known fact that inboard diesel is favorable in offshore conditions ...


Brad
DESIREMK1

[Phillip]

Shaun and Brad,

If you are going to cruise extensively it's best done with a diesel motor as less fuel is required.



But, given the expense of a NEW diesel engine I would probably go for an outboard motor.

"The secret is to find a Top Hat with a good inboard already in place."

[storm petrel]

I have used Propspeed on the prop and shaft for 4 years and have had no problem with growth but I use the boat regularly and I re-apply Propspeed every 12 months.

Shaun your diesels looks ancient and not very well cared for in the past and I can understand your thoughts about replacing it with an outboard. I was at Lion Island this afternoon sailing back from Newport when a thunderstorm rolled in and the wind headed us and then disappeared. It was nice to be able to turn the key and push back home through the choppy windswell at 5 knots, though I guess you could have done much the same with a transom mounted outboard. You do see secondhand and/or rebuilt Yanmars around for a couple of k, but I suppose by the time you fitted it you would be lucky to get out of it for less than 4k, which makes the new outboard option attractive.

I don't know about fuel but I agree with Phillip that diesel's do not use a lot of fuel. My tank holds enough diesel to run for 35-40 hours at 70% of max revs (100-150nm). It might add a bit of weight but gives me peace of mind and means I don't have to refil it too often. How much fuel would an outboard need to go 100nm?

[Rod]

Hi,
Have just purchased a Tohatsu 6hp, ultra long shaft, 4 stroke off ebay for 1800 dollars. previous o/b was a 6hp 2 stroke, very good but noisy and too much exhaust. I have had diesels in previous boats and as Phil said, if you get a good one it is better but too expensive if starting from nothing. My tender is a 2.3hp 4 stroke Honda long shaft. If the main o/b fails then at least 2.3hp is better than nothing, albeit not much better. Surprising though the 2.3 has as much go as my 4hp 2 stroke and it supposedly will go for a full hour on full throttle for a tank, 1.3 litres.

[Troppo]

HI Shaun, have you checked for previous posts on outboard vs inboard? I know I have in the past typed up quite a bit since I have had both an inboard diesel and outboard, although the diesel was not in a Tophat.

Different folks have their various opinions, mine is that a well-cared for diesel would generally be my first preference. I say "generally" because I have come to really appreciate my 2 stroke smelly outboard. Not only do I have heaps more space inside for big items like spare water bottles and spare anchor and chain and rope and buckets (but less space in the cockpit) but the outboard has proven very reliable and effective. I had to sell my diesel sailing boat since it was in another town and everytime I went up something else broke on the motor and it was costing me a fortune. Spent over $5k on repairs without calculating lost money going up there to go sailing and have to sit on the mooring working out what parts to get for next time I come up. If my outboard died tomorrow I could have a brand new motor on it, if I wanted, on the weekend for $2,000. You could say I am a bit of an outboard convert.

[RodM]

36 Hours before I left Sydney for Batemans Bay, My Volvo MD5A inboard hydrauliced & ended up spitting out a welch plug. I bought a swing bracket & Honda 5hp long shaft 4 stroke OBM, bolted it on the transom and headed south.

Unless you have a Mk 1 cutout transom or a later Mk OBM cockpit well, I think there are real issues with a transom bracket. The OBM has to sit back from the transom to allow for motor rotation, the steering arm, and pull start. If you've got a pushpit it involves lowering the bracket, starting & steering the OBM through a mozaic of rear stays & chromework - and the tiller arm still has to stick up at an angle. You can't always lock the OBM straight forward and tiler steer, especially if doing some close manouvering or forward-reverse work.

The other issue with a bracket is that the OBM prop sits 15cm further back than a direct transom mount and probably 50-60cm further back than a cockpit well mounted OBM. Despitethe motor being mounted correctly - actually on the low side of correctly - I had to abort my first night entry to Batemans Bay due to an outgoing tide & chop causing frequent cavitation. I guess its also extra exposed to a dunking from that unexpected wave. Nothing against the OBM itself, though it does use twice the fuel of the diesel per hour.

I've been watching Diesel engines on Ebay and even sussed out overseas costs for a recon Yanmar 1GM10. However you look at it, it'd be between 4 & 10K fitted. At the moment I'm buying up enough Volvo parts to last me till I'm too old and weak to turn the starter key. I'll sell the OBM when diesel repairs are complete.

And heartfelt appreciation for return of the Website! RodM

[Phillip]

Well I'm joining Rod and Bear [who I believe has just done this]in that I'm pulling the Nanni out for repairs. Just had the injectors redone and that was my undoing. With the injectors now working properly there is insufficient compression occurring to allow the Nanni to idle, so looks like I'm up for new rings at least.

I will let this bit of weather go through and haul it out next week. I'll keep you all you posted.

Still don't think I'll put an OB on!

PS Shaun please ring me!

[bearmcnally]

Hello Hatters
I couldn't justify spending $7 thousand plus on a diesel engine on a 40 year boat worth about the same or less .I don't take Egret II offshore anymore, and only play around on Lake Macquarie with her .So her BMW D7 suits her fine. I have enough spares including a spare bottom end to keep her going for years to come and can still buy parts.I believe it depends what you want to do with your Top Hat and what you want the yacht to do ! You must remember it's not only the the cost of the new engine it's the forgotten things like engine beds, will the old prop work with the new engine couplings etc . I personally believe inboards for off shore are the best . Never seen a Sydney to Hobarter with an outboard hanging off the back ... ?

Cheers Bear