Port Lights (Not windows)

[Tales]

Hi Greg,

I replaced the windows on Tales a few years ago. Frames too as they were corroded.

Used the same system as original because bolt on, for Tales, would not have been a good look.

The cabin and deck surfaces are not true to each other (not in a straight line) and with enough filler to give flexibility the windows would have stood out 10mm or more.

The biggest problem with windows is that they change dimension at a different rate to the fibreglass in heat/cold/wet/dry and any adhesive sealant (if not really thick) eventually fails. It could take years though.

The length of the Mk III window makes it worse. Addiditionally, the original had a light vertical brace included on the inside trim. It doesen't look like it does much but if you leave it off, the cabin top and deck below flex quite a bit when walked on.

The original type of windows on the Mk III used the rubber section as a seal. The silicon or whatever is used only as a spacer to centalize the plexiglass and does not go between the frame and glass, just around the outside of the glass.

I made up a brace which also doubles as a hand hold and reinforced the structure between the headliner and deck locally.

Regarding drilling windows, some people use a blunt drill but tradesmen use a drill sharpened for plastic. The rake angle must be reduced from positive to zero. This will stop the drill pulling into the material and making cracks when it breaks through. Additionally the edges of the hole should be lightly releived with a multi flute countersink (not a drill bit).

Lexan is very attractive as it has the reputation of being 'bullet proof' however this mostly relates to bending. In tension it is not much stronger than anything else so if it has holes drilled in it and is held securely, side loads (breaking wave) will cause tension force and tend to break it at the holes. Extra thick windows with oversize holes and thick sealant would go a long way to help here.

The windows on Tales are ok and they don't leak but they fret a bit with the movement and I feel that 10 or 15 years will be the limit. Like a lot of other boat stuff I guess.

Cheers,

Tom

[Dolphin]

Thanks Tom that is good info.

I took the rake off the drill by rubbing an oil stone it and yes, the countersink was with a metal countersink bit. The sharpening angle on a drill is much different to a countersink. I used that on the portlight in the front hatch.

There is a fair curve in the side of the cabin and I was wondering how the 10mm Plexiglass was going to take it. Perhaps Shaun can let us know if there was a problem. If I removed the frame, I think I would put the screws in and not just rely on sealant to hold. The screws would only just hold the plexiglass against the cabin.
One of the other yachties at the club put a neoprene seal under his plexiglass on a bigger yacht and he caused leaks, he ended up putting two more screws between the ones he originally fitted. It sounds like he overtightened the screws.
I plan on attacking it today or tomorrow. I've still got to cleanup the stbd one. I was going to hold the plastic in place with plywood wedges and tape while I put the rubber in. Hopefully the rubber will then take the weight.
Wish me luck! Thanks for the help Tom. Anything more?

[Tales]

Hi Greg,

Putting the seal rubber in can be tricky.

My new windows were made upside down and had the rubber join at the bottom which leaked after a few months.

I got new rubber and did it again with join half way along the top and a bit of sealant at the ends of the rubber.

Pays to cut it about 20 - 30 mm too long and squeeze it in.

Also don't stretch it when fitting into the frame. Compress it (length wise)if possible and work really hard at getting it into the corners - especially the tight corners.

The windows really do move and if the rubber is short it will pull out of the corners.

Good luck anyway!

Tom

[Dolphin]

Thanks Tom for that, I welcome any info you have.
I had replaced the rubber before and I found that I did indeed stretch the rubber and it pulled out of the corners. This time I made sure it was compressed, worked it back into itself. I found the best way was to put a raised loop in and hammer it in place.
I just got back from replacing the stbd one. The rubber I got from Clarks didn't fit. I had spare of the old section so had to press that into service. I was still 200 mm short. Just got a good bit of the Old old stuff and used that, I did indeed have the join at the top. I put sikaflex in the join.
I also used a 4mm drill to put a drain hole in the outer frame.
I'll see what it looks like tomorrow in the light. I think it's pretty rough, but considering it was blowing and rough I was getting seedy and the light was fading I think we may have had success.
I now need to get some rubber to finish off the port one.

It looks good in the dark!

[Dolphin]

Tom where did you get your rubber from? Have you got any details.

[Shaun]

It looks good in the dark!

Im sure a blind man on a galloping horse would be pleased to see it!

(btw, my windows were on the boat when I got it, theres 2 on each side, next time im out at the boat, I'll have a look to see if the rather thick acrylic(?) was able to be bent to follow any curves in the cabin top, or if the installer found flat spots to put them)

cheers

[Dolphin]

A couple of photos from yesterday. The wedges were made from 6mm ply with a taper on the narrow end to just hold the plexiglass in place before installing the "Rubber Glazing Wedge" as I found is the correct term for the rubber.

[SeaLady]

Those new (not windows) look lovely.

Other than all the labour, what is the cost of the new plastic?

Replies of different types of plastic welcome.

[Dolphin]

Costs so far Dianna are;
Not windows Plexiglass (Acrylic) $98 ea, $ 200
(1580mm x 225mm x 4.5thk)

Rubber glazing wedge, (Not the right one yet)
$12 / m need about 8m $ 96

Sikaflex tube #261 $23 ea $ 50
(one will just do it but you need 2 tubes)

So far about $350.

Satisfaction knowing the windows wont leak, priceless!

But I can now see out of the Port Lights.!
I'm still chasing down the correct wedge section.

Hope it helps

[Troppo]

Gee, those windows are looking awesome!

This may help with getting that rubber in: I recently replaced all the hard rubber wedge strips in the aluminimium framed windows in my house. When pushing in the new stripping, I sprayed a little glass cleaner on the glass where the strip was to be inserted. This helped lubricate the rubber and made it so easy to push the strip in that I astonished myself (I don't usually have good ideas with this sort of stuff). I also found it a bit easier to then compress the strip a little as I inserted it. Compressing is better, I think, than stretching as if stretched it can later pull away from corners and from the join. Don't know if this applies to boat windows and the stripping but it may help.