Port Lights (Not windows)

[Troppo]

Nice to see the pics and follow the repair, Greg.

[Miker]

Indeed Greg, I agree with Toppo. It's a job I've been planning on for ages.

Don't suppose you ca get me a set from your supplier and bring 'em with you in June? or perhaps, like a lot of things Top Hat, they're just a slightly different size.........

How much was all the stuff again?

[Killick69]

Greg, thanks for the pics. Watching this with keen interest, as the portlights on Night Cap will need to be done soon. I will also need to replace the small 'window' on the hatch over the vee berth. Night Cap is a mk3 and I was wondering about the cost of such large pieces of acrylic or polycarbonate. Just wonder if the portlights are the originals or how many times they have been replaced. I guess they get more crazed and one day just start leaking. Gee she will look good with new portlights.

John

[Dolphin]

G'Day all,
The thickness was 4.65mm as measured and they have 4.5mm as standard.

Took about 3 hours to clean up just some of the silicon on one portlight. Can't get it all off.
I went to Bunnings and they have Sikaflex marine sealant 291. I was going to use 11c the general grade but 291 is better and supposedly not runny like 11C. MikeR suggested using automotive polyurethane, maybe the auto grade is better. the salesman at the plastics place in Bennetts Green said the Sikaflex is good.

The plastic is Acrylic. The grade of tint I chose was a medium, graded 560.

The two plastics cost $90 ea, plus GST so it comes to about $200.
The rubber, which by the way is not a seal its just a dress trim, costs about $12 per meter. You need about 3.6 to 4m.

I've never replaced the acrylic. I replaced the trim, thinking it was a seal and used Selleys all clear which doesn't dry out. In fact, it goes on like snot and comes off like snot years later. The problem with that is that it is not an adhesive and the rubber drifts around.
There was a lot of water in the portlight frame soI drilled a hole to drain it in future. I can always glue it up later.

I'll do a sketch of how the frame goes together later.

[bearmcnally]

Hey Greg

Watch them "Bunnings Salesmen /women /people as some also work at Mc Donald's .I call them the "Bunnings Cockroaches ' because as soon as they see you coming they scatter !

Bear

[Dolphin]

Here is the cross section detail of the Port light frame

[Shaun]

imho the frame is the weak point, too many iffy joints, Greg I dont know if you can remember the "portlight" set up on Blue Moon, I am very happy with it....no leaks & looks very strong.
10mm (dont know what material but its tinted) & no sealant...just neoprene strips(2 narrow ones between cabin & the acrylic(?))

portlight.jpg (32.39 KiB) Viewed 5843 times

cheers

[Dolphin]

Shaun,
I'm having second thoughts about continuing. Now I've got the material I'll use it and see how it goes. I think in the long run I might just take the frame out, use the outer dimension of the frame and use 10mm then just use the clamp plate on the inside You then only have one sealing face. I can also get rid of the storm boards which look a bit Heath Robinson.

I don't think I have the time to do it that way now. I'll just press on.

I don't remember Blue Moons set up, getting old I guess, what was your name again???

The existing way has worked for a long time.

[Miker]

From memory, Dan on Auriga had the same set up as you Shaun, acrylic or lexan bolted straight on the outside of the coach house. It looks pretty good, but is not original, and for me, I like original

I think the modern adhesives and the strength of materials will help.

[Dolphin]

I picked up the replacement window rubber from Clark Rubber.
Its close, but in fact it may even fit better.