Replacing a Toe Rail

[SeaLady]

Woe is me.

My attempts to repair my rapidly rotting toe rail seem to have failed.
It is now basically nearly all sikafex and silicon with very crumbly and broken timber.

Does anyone know what it would cost and who I can get to replace it?

And would I be better with an anluminum one and a couple of fairleads at the bow.

I am thinking that I could then keep the anchor on the bow roller and the mooring line through the fairlead. My new anchor does not fit in the anchor locker. It holds brilliantly though.

Help???

Diana

[john lewis]

Hi It would probably cost you more than the boat is worth, to replace the toerail. Take a section off and take it to a timber mill and get them two run off two lenghts identical, and screw the new ones on.
As for your anchor, why did you buy a anchor that will not fit in the anchor well?? I have seen a lot of boaties over the last 40 years get into all sorts of trouble with a anchor hanging over the bow! In a rough seaway they can come loose and do all sorts of damage including punturing the hull and the boat sinking, remember they are very heavy and have lots of sharp points, they will dig into anything thats what they are desighned to do, Get a anchor that will fit in your anchor locker, and DONT TEMPT FATE.

Cheers John Lewis

[Aaron]

I agree with John, take it off and take it to the timber mill. On my boat i have a teak looking toe rail but its not its a wax wood, from the research i have done, its really good stuff and lasts alot longer than teak, but i cannot remeber the name of it off the top of my head. You can also buy a bowroller that has two rollers one for the anchor and the other for the mooring, but you may be needing two bollards, and by the way i took the boat for a motor down your way and found sea lady, looks like a very together. little ship.
Cheers,
Aaron.

[Killick69]

Hi Diana,
Sorry to hear the toe-rail is on the way out. I am in the process of re-attaching part of the toe rail on Night Cap. In the next few years I will need to find a replacement. Getting a mill or good timber yard to produce pieces of the same profile should not be too hard. One piece each side would be better than the joins in the rail on Night Cap. The only difficulty in fitting a new timber rail of the correct profile will be bending it. Aluminium looks like a good option (probably stronger if fitted correctly). Does anyone know if correct profile aluminum is available? If timber, what is best species to use (durability and ease of bending). It seems the toerail covers the joint between hull and deck, so integrity of toe rail is important.

Cheers, John

[storm petrel]

I have investigated new teak toe rails for Storm Petrel. The cost of having a shipwright do it is pretty silly. I got two quotes to supply a machined piece of teak, steam bend it and fix it on. Even leaving the finishing up to me worked out at over $2000! So I have patched it up and it can last a few more years (heck, it is only for appearance and doesn't slow the boat down).

Cheers,
Mark

[SeaLady]

I have actually broken some of the wood.
Got caught under someone elses metal gunwhale.

At the moment I have a clamp holding it in place.
Was going to try and glue it and screw it.
And fill everything else with Sikaflex.

Maybe I look for a smaller clamping arrangement.

[SeaLady]

Thank you Aaron.

Yes I love her and think she is beautiful.

John, why do I have an anchor that does not fit?.

See if you can find on here a very long previous discussion about my miserable anchoring skills.

This new anchor. A Manson Supreme has held every time I have used it. With a lot less chain and I am going to reduce the amount of chain even further.

The old anchor and also just about every other anchor I have ever used has dragged more than 50% of the time. Including during the practical of my Day Skipper ticket classes.
I told the skipper instructor about my problem.
He then went through anchoring in great detail.

I watched whilst others anchored 'by the book'.

We were at anchor for less than an hour for lunch and dragged so much we had to leave.

So it is not necessarily me that is the problem.

I will put up with having an anchor that is too big for the peace of mind.
And being able to get a good nights sleep.

[john lewis]

Hi Diana
When you drop your anchor, the old one that dragged, did you have 5 mtrs of chain on it? And after dropping your anchor do you put the boat in reverse and dig it in till the boat stops?? Were are you at, some ground will drag e.g gravel or solid rock bottom, you just cannot drop the anchor and thats that, you have to dig them in. Hope this helps you Dianna.

Cheers Oberon 11 p.s little anchor but lots of hold (lol)

[Miker]

Diana, the other option you could do with your anchor is to have the well made deeper. That's what I'm thinking of doing, as my anchor is also larger than will fit in the locker.

As for your toe rails, I have a friend who will supply timber at the right price, however before replacing them, you would need to make sure the fibreglass join between the deck and the hull is solid. It's better that this is solid and doesn't leak before you put your rails on. That's why mine are full of sikaflex and don't drain properly.

It may be a higher cost in the long run, but when you look at mine, you'll see that paying more to do it well is worth the cost.

Well, that's my 2 bobs worth anyway.

[john lewis]

Hi all
I always thought tophats were moulded in one piece, no hull and deck join?? correct me if i am wrong !!
And thats a good idea make the well bigger, or a smaller anchor and more technique!!

Cheers Oberon 11