Painting the gunnel / toerail

[SeaLady]

Hello all.

I have now Sikaflexed the holes and gaps and cracks in my timber toe rail / gunnel.

Do you reckon I could get away with painting it with water based/ quick dry outdoor house paint?
Or do I need marine paint?

The existing surface is a mixture of bare wood, old paint, sikafex (sandable and paintable) and a patch of maine derck paint as a test run.

Any ideas?

It is just that the quick dry aspect would make my life much easier.

[8philip8]

hi Diana
oil paint will last much longer.
don't do shotcut,
or have to do it again sooner.
I did one side 3 weeks ago.
must do the other side soon!!
Sylph
8philip8

[Shaun]

G'Day,
I am not a painter,
but I have been told by painters that water based/acrylic paints will outperform & outlast oil based paints in an exterior situation. For example exterior house paint is water based.
Apparently the sun's UV breaks down oil based/enamel paints quicker??

( Two-pack paints are probably different, I know nothing about them.)

Enamels are tougher & withstand knocks better, thats why its used on interior doors, jambs, skirtings etc.

It would be better to sand off any existing paint on the toe rails first, especially if its enamel (acrylic wont go over enamel).

I am happy to be proved wrong

cheers

[Swift]

Hi

I agree with Shaun. Oil based paints, particularly "marine" paints are more abrasion resistant than water based house paints. They are much easier to apply because brush marks flow out and have a much higher gloss level. After the initial drying time when the solvents evaporate, oil based (alkaloid resin paints) react with oxygen to complete the curing process to form a hard film. The downside is that this reaction is ongoing and the paint eventually becomes excessively brittle, which matters less on a stable surfaces indoors but on anything that is subject to movement (like wood outdoors) it leads to cracking and peeling.

Water based acrylics, cure by a different and ultimately more stable process and retain their flexibility longer. In sun exposed positions a good quality 100% acrylic house paint will outlast any oil based paint including the best "marine" oil paints. Premium brand acrylic house paints are guaranteed for up to 15 years. Additionally acrylics are more colour stable, mould resistant and are less subject to staining than oil paints. Wood is less likely to rot when painted with acrylic because the cured paint membrane is vapour permeable so moisture can escape.

The thing to remember when using water based acrylics is that although they dry quickly (usually touch dry within two hours), they cure very slowly and will be very soft for many days. It takes 3 or 4 weeks for a complete cure.

I believe a lot of commercial fishermen use house paint on their topsides and paving paint on their deck. That said, I would never recommend house paint for large areas on sail boats, such as topsides, mainly because, unless sprayed, they look like crap compared to well applied oil paint. Given the limitations already mentioned It would be viable option for a small wood area like a toe rail.

Whichever paint is used - oil or acrylic, a good primer sealer undercoat should be used first. I reckon the best one around is Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 (available at Bunnings). Zinsser will prime anything, old paint, bare wood etc. If Zinsser is used you won't have to sand off the old paint provided that it is not peeling.

Cheers

[bearmcnally]

Hi Hatters ,

1.. Marine paints last longer especially the new paints on the market

2... Enamel (house) .. bit like "house wine " taste or right but not as good as the proper stuff ? It will work but won't keep the gloss.

3... Water based fantastic for dynal sheathed decks, because you don't get a build up of paint . If you want more non skid you sprinkle coffee crystals (sugar) on the wet paint and hose off when dry saves on sand and looks better.

Vanished timber is more eye catching and looks professional .Painted timber gunwales and trim look cheap even on a Mk 2 and 3 ...?

Bear

[KJD13]

Hi Diana,
A friend of mine has recently painted the exterior woodwork of his Toppie with a product called "Monocell Gold Marine Varnish". It is available at Bunnings, is easy to apply and looks sensational when dry. I will be using this product on the Wayward Lady, when next I haul her out.
Cheers,
Kevin
Wayward Lady

[surrealbass]

Hi there, just To give you yet another choice, Joylee has somewhat more than the average amount of brightwork and my zeal for sparkling varnish has faded somewhat- which led me to follow a recommendation of a boatbuilder mate who uses DeksOjle heavily on the wooden boats he builds for himself. I must say that as long as you set aside 3/4 of a day to apply the part one and as recommended keep drenching the wood until it can't take any more the maintenance is positively simple! Once it was light sand all over to take a coat or two of varnish off clean up meticulously- and varnish away- once every 3-6 months depending on the season. Now all I do is give it a wash with a scotchbrite and then wipe a coat on with a rag or foam brush- about the same frequency but massively easier. if you screw up and don't do it you just rub a bit harder with the scotchbrite. do the same with varnish and it's back to bare wood again! some people I have found to have a bad experience but without exception it seems they don't do the first coat correctly and let it dry between refresher coats which stops it being absorbed. If you don't like it it makes a good base for traditional varnish any way so nothing lost!

[SeaLady]

Thanks all,

I think the timber is past being varnished and the thought of doing somethng every few months does not agree with my non love of maintenance.
Many years ago in a previous life I had a Huon Pine gaff rigger.

Which we (ex hubby and I) decided to keep as traditional as possible.
7 coats of marine varnish on the timber mast and spars after what seemed like a lifetime of sanding and they looked magnificent for a couple of months.

That boat was 95% maintenance and 5% fun.

I prefer the inverse. 5% maintenance and 95% fun.

I may try a small patch of water based exterior paint.

Have done a test run of it on the wash boards a few weeks ago, satin, exterior but have not been out to check.
Maybe a good sand and some penetrol may help it stick.

I will report back.

[surrealbass]

penetrol = wonderful stuff

[Miker]

I've researched this topic myself for Dulcamara before. It's an onerous task just to make a decision on the best process, because everyone who sells the stuff believes theirs is the best.....

I have no affiliation with http://ppcco.com.au/, however I have used their stuff on cars and bikes before, and I had a chat to one of their guys a few months back about their flow coats. He believes it's the best way to go, because of the way the coatings cure.

Dulcamara is still dull, and in need of a paint, as do her Jarra toe rails that are now grey, but when I get the time, I will probably use Pelucid on the timber and Whitecote with a tint for the deck and topsides. The claim of won't crack, peel or chip, so far is good on my Harley after 10 years or so....

Michael