Anchoring

[storm petrel]

Greg,

Have you tried running an extra line from the (big public) buoy to the midships? I cannot see how this would prevent you bumping into the buoy from time to time? Could you explain how an extra line would help.

Thanks,
Mark

[Phillip]

Hi Diana & Greg,

We have no courtesy moorings here, but I have seen some in Port Stephens a couple of years ago. Without seeing the ones you are referring to, I would still be reluctant to tie up to a bit of plastic

I've attached a photo of that mousing you need to do Diana and the backing pad to my windless. Note the location of the haser pipe in relation to the windless. I only needed to drill 4 bolt holes to mount it.

Phillip
SEAKA

Windless backing pad

DSC04341a.jpg (102.79 KiB) Viewed 4633 times

Windless backing pad

DSC04342a.jpg (98.04 KiB) Viewed 4633 times

Deck layout

DSC04345a.jpg (157.09 KiB) Viewed 4633 times

Mousing on anchor shackle

DSC04346a.jpg (150.05 KiB) Viewed 4633 times

[Dolphin]

Hi All, I hope this mud map helps.

Mooring Top Hats.jpg (9.25 KiB) Viewed 4624 times

The typical buoy is shown for a courtesy mooring. Some of them are just aircraft tyres like in broken Bay but the same problem exists. The boat gets blown back from the buoy and strain is taken on the mooring (2). All ok, then the wind drops the boat gets pulled towards the buoy by the springer chain on the bottom and hits the buoy (3) and it slides down the side of the boat bumping as it goes.
One way I was told to defeat this a bit is to take another line to the side of the boat (1) so there is more force on the mooring, the boat doesn't go straight ahead to hit the mooring and slides past it . As you said Keith it will sometimes still hit it.
Is there a way to beat this (and have a good nights sleep)?
I'm too old for this!

Thanks Philip for including the picture of the mousing.

Greg.

[Phillip]

Hi All,

Found one way to beat this problem, that is to actually lift the buoy slightly so that it will not drift back towards the hull.

Too good to be true I think as Top Hats do not have a bow sprit to enable this to work!

Any comments?

Phillip
SEAKA

[SeaLady]

Philip
Can you please email me the photos of your backing plate to sealady@live.com.au

I can't print them out from here.

Thanks also for the mousing photo.

I am going out today to cut my anchor chain to a more manageable length and attaching a new anchor line 12mm and 50 metres. Hopefully being thicker and longer will help.

Thanks.

[bearmcnally]

DO TOP HATS NEED BOW SPRITS ?



Bear

[Tales]

Hi Everyone,

Anchoring is a subject near to every boat owners heart and I will add my bit.

Tales came with no anchor so I did a lot of research before I came up with my eventual selection.

With no rock to speak of in Port Phillip I use 50m of 12 mm nylon which is incredibly springy and takes out all shock even in 30kt winds.

Normal rule is at least a boat length of chain at the anchor end so I have 8m of 8mm (5/16").

My main anchor is an Oceane (latest version is called Sword) imported from the UK.
It is easy to set, bites in hard and has never dragged.

Minimum scope I use is 5:1.

Second anchor is a Flook. Really good in sand and brilliant as a stern anchor because your just launch it and it 'flys' out through the water at 5:1.

Regarding lifting the anchor. The easiest way I know to get them unstuck is to come up so the rode is vertical and tie off. Just relax then while the waves/wind pulls the anchor out of the mud and when its free, lift it aboard.

Masses of research has been done over the last few years which shows that lots of heavy chain is not necessary if the anchor itself is a good design and acually does bite in properly. All of the new generation types do and will reset with a wind change.

Cheers,

Tom

[TimothyH]

Hello Greg

Re mooring buoys banging on the side of the boat; try carrying a short length (about 1metre) of electrical conduit, thread a second rope through this and tie off from the buoy to a point aft of the bow, this helps keep the buoy away from the side. The conduit also works aft when towing a tender, ie it stops the tender from riding up on the stern. A handy hint that works read some time ago in Cruising Helmsman!

Cheers
TimothyH

[Dolphin]

Thanks Tim, I'll play around with it and see if it works.
Greg.

[Swift]

Hi Diana

Back to your original question about your problems with dragging, I don't think it's you, I reckon you probably have a dud anchor. With plough anchors there's some good (copies of the genuine CQR) and some not so good. Things to look for are shanks that are too short or not enough weight in the tip. Anyway, even a genuine CQR is not the greatest anchor around. Also a potential problem with all pivoting anchors is wear around the pivot pin. If it's too sloppy the anchor may not dig in properly.

I have a plough with a boat length of 3/8 chain. Once dug in this holds very well, the maximum wind load I have tested it in was one night when it was blowing over 30 knots for a few hours. The next morning it was a bugger to break out of the harbour mud. However, this anchor does not like grassy or hard sandy bottoms and in these conditions it is very hard to get a good set and it will drag. For these reasons and also as the pin was showing signs of wear I recently bought a Manson Supreme. I have only used the new anchor a few times but so far it has dug in instantly and this combined with the lighter weight makes for a huge improvement over the old plough.

Cheers
Keith