Life lines and stanchions

[Killick69]

Need to remove, straighten and re-fit stanchions. Life lines need to be replaced at the same time.

The PVC coated wire looks nice, but the uncoated wire is probably the go. I believe 5/32 (4mm) is the correct size and it is 1X19 wire. Does anyone know whether 1X19 wire rope is too inflexible to take bending back to swage onto itself. If this is the case, the wire would need to fit inside the end of the termination to be swaged/crimped.
The Pelican clips I bought have eyes on the ends and would suit wire been bent back and swaged onto itself.
Is there a rope alternative and if so, how does one attach it to the fittings?

If anyone has removed and re-fitted stanchions I would be keen to learn about this. It seems the nuts are embedded in fibreglass. It seems once the stanchions are removed I might need to drill right through the fibreglass, put new bolts through and use some kind of backing plate (maybe plywood) on the underside.

Night Cap has the original stanchions and I don't know if they will straighten out OK (she was hit by another boat whilst on the mooring - owner of other boat was kind enough to leave me a note).

Cheers, John

[Phillip]

I put plane ss wire on the top but ended up putting on plastic covers to protect the sails.
Next time I replace the top wire I will use the plastic covered type.

I also use pelican clips on one end,the other is just an eye lashed onto the pulpit fitting with nylon cord.

Before you redrill holes for stantions, full all the previous holes with fibreglass and then drill.

[steve]

If you want to comply with the racing regulations, lifeline wire must not be coated with PVC. Even if not racing, you might consider whether it is wise to use PVC coated wire. It is not permitted for racing because in the past wire has corroded within the PVC.

4mm is a sensible diameter. (The minimum diameter allowed by the racing regulations for boats up to 8.5m long is 3mm).

You may find it difficult, or impossible, to neatly bend 4mm 1x19 wire. It would be better to use 7x7 (or 7x19 if 7x7 is not available). The PVC coated lifeline wire sold be Whitworths is 7x7.

Steve

[Phillip]

I have found that you need to cover at least the forward sections to protect the jib and Genoa where they cross the safety wire.

[Killick69]

Thanks for your replies. I managed yesterday to remove the stanchions and life lines. Some of the embedded nuts turned with the bolts, so I had to cut the bolts and once stanchions were removed, drill around the nuts and remove them. Will have to do some filling (epoxy or polyester, with or without filler?).

I have 2 very good pelican hooks that I bought from USA and was wondering whether to use the 2 on one side of the boat or put one one each side on the upper life line. Any comments will be appreciated.I guess it is easy enough stepping over the lower line and it will be awkward loosening 2 pelicans for people to board the boat.

Does anyone know if it is acceptable to use hooks on the end of the wire rope to hook into the 'loop' on the pulpit or is it better to use d-shackles to attach an eye to the pulpit. Possibility of hook slipping off the pulpit 'loop"?

I have decided to go uncoated wire, either 5/32 or 4mm (pretty much the same size). Has anyone tried the spreader lifeline rollers (plastic wheel that goes on lifeline) to help the foresail over the lines. These are available at about $12 each and can be fitted over existing life lines (rollers split for fitting).

Cheers

[Killick69]

All done! Thanks for your input. Today I refitted the stanchions and life lines.
Went with uncoated 4mm (7X19) and did the swaging at Whitworths (One my hire their swaging tool). I chose to do it at Whitworths and save the return trip to return the tool.

Had the round bar "knees" welded at Whale Spars. Had to epoxy in 4 new nuts.

Cheers and Merry Christmas everyone.