Post Survey - Rudder

[Alyosius]

Good morning all,

Well I'm still waiting for the actual survey report to be emailed to me, I have the verbal. Its mostly all good, so looks like I will have a Top Hat shortly.

There was one issue identified that I wasn't expecting however. It appears the rudder is probably waterlogged - how badly not sure yet, probably won't know until I get the actual report.

The surveyor is concerned that the shoe and rudder will part company...which would be a problem if I happened to be underway at the time....

My gut feeling is that I have similar issues to Troppo and Tropi

I'm not overly concerned - I wasn't expecting a 30+ year old boat to be without a few issues, and apart from that the repairs required seem to be cosmetic (of which I will be back to ask for advice in due course). The surveyor says that I am unlikely to lose the rudder delivering the yacht to Newcastle, which was my main concern.

My concern at this point is, what is that sort of repair likely to set me back? I noticed the recommendation is that the rudder should be removed in the water - thats fine I'm a scuba diver so have no issues with that as an idea, but what am I likely to have to do to repair the rudder itself and seal it?

I know its very much a how long is a piece of string question, but I was hoping you might be able to give me a ballpark idea.

Thanks all

[Troppo]

Hi Galini, congratulations on the purchase (almost) of a Top Hat. Beaut boats, I am sure you will enjoy it.

With Windchaser, I had to (a) repair the fibreglass under the shoe and (b) repair the rudder. Unfortunately, a survey done a year before I got Windchaser did not pick up on these issues yet they had been there for many years.

I have no idea what you will need to do for a repair, but I can highlight some of my experience. In some ways it was a harder repair than expected but overall it was relatively easy. It was harder than expected as I had Windchaser up on the slip and I thought it would be quick to do the cleaning down and antifoul before going back in the water. When I investigated the cracks in the fibreglass covering the stainless steel rudder pipe, I thought it would only need a patch. Then my investigation showed the water had been seeping in for a long time. Once the little job turned into a big job, it was relatively easy.

Windchaser was on the slip and since the trolley was high enough and not in the way, I simply put a board under the rudder on a stand and held up with a car jack, cut off the show bolts (they were too corroded to undo), undid the bolt holding the tiller on in the cockpit (actually I did that first), and lowered the rudder down. The car jack was overkill. Not that heavy.

At home, I stripped down the rudder using chisel and grinder. Found there was still some good wood under layers which were water damaged. The main post has flat pieces of stainless steel going back into the wood stock. I chiseled back the bad wood but there was still plenty of the steel strap going into good wood. So, I just built up from what was left, using epoxy, dynel cloth, powder stuff for the epoxy to thicken it but can be used for underwater surfaces. Took ages to do the build up but it was not technically difficult. Just had to make sure each layer was properly sticking to the layer underneath.

Having a boat with no rudder meant I had to get extra help to tow my boat from the slip to mooring and then a month or so later tow back to the slip. Took ten minutes to put the rudder back on. Would have been quicker but some of the bolts were a bit tricky to put through the shoe.

My experience was certainly a trial but overall, just taking it one step at a time and paying attention to getting the rudder cleaned up and the layers going on properly meant I was happy with the outcome. And very happy two years later when the rudder was still looking great at slip time.

Your rudder may end up being totally different to repair. However, they are not that tricky to repair, just takes time and ensuring each step is done properly. If you can do that, I am sure you won't have too many dramas.

troppo

[Alyosius]

Well I've got the report back and the but about the rudder is included below:

The bottom rudder gudgeon showed evidence of de-zincification and requires further investigation as to the amount of deterioration. The rudder was water logged with water running out the entire time of inspection, this area also requires further investigation.

The only other surprise was the mention that the engine mounts need to be replaced (which I imagine is also not cheap....)

I would welcome any further points or suggestions but at this point there is nothing noted that will stop me buying it.

[Phillip]

Hi Alyosius,

If you have to remove the rudder on a slip or hard you will need 800 mm clearance below the keel and
remember the rudder slopes forward at the shoe so you will need about 300 mm clear under the keel to get it out.

I'm sure that if the shoe needs replacement you will be able to get one cast using the old one as a pattern,
just try to cut out all the middle men that say they can get it done for you and go direct to a foundry.

Removing the rudder in-water is easy, just remember to have a line on it to the surface, it will be heavy if full of water.
you may need to support the rudder when removing the shoe.

Before removal check your rudders cutless bearings [top and bottom] and replace if necessary when you slip to replace rudder.

Sent from The Piles in Bowen Marina.

[SeaLady]

Back when I originally purchased SeaLady she has a similar survey report regarding the rudder.

Cost 10 years ago to remove, repair and replace was $2000.
All work done by professional shipwrights and it has been fine since.