Port Lights (Not windows)

[Dolphin]

G'Day I have to replace the windows in Felicite, MK3.
They are all crazed and badly cracked. I want to do it before I set off to the Mid Year sailaway. I'm running out of time.

I am just going to get new plexiglass, tinted, to replace the plastic and I'll try Clarks Rubber to replace the seals.

Any other ideas or has someone replaced them before. No use reinventing the wheel.

[Phillip]

Greg,

Whatever you do, do not use Perspex (acrylic)!


What you need is Lexan (polycarbonate). I replaced Seaka's windows with Lexan.


Lexan is far heaps stronger and less prone to crazing than perspex and when you do the sums it is worth the extra dollars.

Use only the lightest tinted one, otherwise it will be to dark inside your cabin.

I took the old perspex windows to the plastic people and they reproduced them that day
(arranged beforehand) so I only had the windows open, but covered by plastic overnight.

You will have to check with other Top Hatters on how to disassemble your Marks' window frames.

Phillip.

[Troppo]

I am interested in what you are doing with your windows as I am wanting to do mine (though it probably will be later rather than sooner since my to-do list is already looong).

Have you seen the 'no screws' way of putting in windows? I am thinking I might try that way.

http://www.thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html

[Phillip]

I found that the seals on Seaka's windows had failed because there was no spacer between the window and the cabin walls, thus the silaflex had been reduced to almost nothing in the fixing process.

I solved this by using a SS washer between the windows and the cabin wall. Mark 1 windows are fixed with small SS bolts [ie no frames, as in Bob's Norson's details at http://www.thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html].

Phillip.

[Dolphin]

Thanks Phillip
I'll take lots of photos. There are a couple of boats here that have the windows just glued in. Some didn;t work too well so I hear. I don't have enough time to do it properly, but I can do it over again, later.
I ordered a section from Clark Rubber today, hopefully its the right section. One of the other boat owners said he got the darkest shade and it is still ok.

The Local plastics place Power Wholesale signage and Plastics at Bennetts Green will cut it while you wait.
I bought a piece of Plexiglass, that is guaranteed for 30years in the direct sun. it is not directional as some plastics are, meaning you can use either side up. 310mm by 140mm by 6mm thk. was $6. BTW he recommended to drill it using a blunt drill and let the dril cut through without pushing. Support it under where you are drilling or it can snap. Guess I'll have to use one of Bear's drills

It looks like all I have to do is remove the rubber seal, break the plastic out of the base and cleanup the sealant area. The frame is corroded but I'll clean that with vinegar and fill with Sikaflex.

Just waiting for the seal to come in.

[Dolphin]

Well there is no going back now. I was a bit surprised how bad the damage was.

Anyway, I'll press on.

Remove the rubber, It isn't a seal.

P1030271a.jpg (50.12 KiB) Viewed 6581 times

[Dolphin]

The next thing was to break the seal. I did this by getting a thin scraper between the "Glass" and frame.

[Dolphin]

Gently push the acrylic out, you'll be surprised how easy it comes out!.

[Dolphin]

You just don't know what is growing in there !

[Dolphin]

I put a temporary patch over the hole using the storm board and a bit of builders plastic.
We're expecting bad weather in a few days.