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On Night Cap the bow roller, which the forestay also attaches to is held by only 3 bolts. A large bolt that fits from above and goes in at an angle plus 2 small bolts that go through from the front. Unfortunately the end of the long bolt is badly corroded and it is impossible to see what it screws into. It is a mk3 and the roller is rather small. Does anyone know what the end of the bolt screws into? On some Top Hats the long bolt goes through the stainless section on the front, which results in a very secure roller/forestay attachment.

Has anyone had issues with the the attachment of their bow roller? Has anyone replaced theirs with a better design?

Killick

See general discussion " bow fitting detail "

Cheers Bear

John,

See also

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=392

The Mk III has a long bolt the same as the MkII but the boss it screws into on the MkII is outside the bow and on the MkIII it is welded inside.

There is a wooden block of triangular section laminated into the 'V' of the bow and that can become rotten if water gets in.

When I removed my bow fitting (after bending it on a concrete wall!) I found not only a rotten block but also really poor layup in the deck and deck/hull join.

I cut out all the bad stuff and remade the deck reinforcing the bow and the deck join in the process. It is a difficult job which is probably the deck join was so poorly done in the first placed.

Also had a new bow fitting made up.

Good luck!

Tom

Thanks for the input.
Here's the action plan. Gonna get a longer bolt (maybe also bigger diameter). Will remove the bow roller and straighten the thin bit that hangs down. Get the weld beefed up, as it is damaged. I could do the weld if only I had s/s rods, as I have a welder, but would have to buy a whole box of electrodes/rods, so better to get it done professionally. Will drill through the hang down plate and attach the nut(s) on the outside. I expect it will be difficult drilling thru the s/s. I will probably have to make up tapered washers to get everything to line up. By passing the bolt through the hang down piece the bow roller will be well secured. Will check out the wooden piece to make sure it is sound. Apparently antifreeze kills wood rot (dry rot), so may hit it with some antifreeze. Fortunately some of the wooden block is exposed in the peak of the vee berth, which will allow the block to breathe and for moisture to escape once it is sealed off on the outside.

You could have the tapered washer welded on at the same time.

The MkII's had the 'nut' on the outside but it can catch on spinnaker sheets etc so they put it on the inside for later models.

Cheers,

Tom

Mr K,
Welding stainless steel with stick is MUCH easier than welding mild steel and FAR easier than weldng gal.
The finish on the SS weld is far superior and it doesn't need pickling. The down side is the slag is like broken beer bottles and on cooling will shatter and splinter.
You can buy a pack of 6 rods for about $9. Expensive but good.
They use less current than Mild steel for the same size weld about 80% of the current for the same job and the weld flows beautifully. Give it a go.
To drill SS use a very sharp drill, low speed and LOTS of pressure. The moment you use high speed and polish the surface the chrome comes to the top and you wont drill through it. Every drill you use will be bluntened from then on.
Greg.

Good info there. Greg, if you know where I can get a pack of 6 electrodes, please let me know. Last time I looked packs were about $60. Problem I see with the drilling is that the bolt does not meet the plate at right angles. Anyway will get the drill press out and have a go.
Cheers

Mr K,
I got mine from Westlakes Gas and Welding Supplies at Warners Bay (4954 5999) but any welding supplies place will probably have them. The flux is pink coloured.
Wear safety glasses as the flux will shatter and splinter as it cools or when chipping it.

Have fun, Greg.

Thanks for your input everyone. Job done. Got Whalespars Rigging to drill the hole right through and weld up the joint between the upper part that sits on deck and the thinner part that runs down in front. The front part was bent and they straightened it for me. All for $75. I cut a bigger nut at an angle to serve as a washer. Now secure and water-tight (Sikaflex used). The timber block fortunately is sound.