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Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 4:27 pm
by Killick69
The time has come to re-varnish the grab rails on the cabin top. How easy is it to remove and refit them, or is it better to sand and varnish them in-position? Can anyone comment on whether or not they tend to be a source of water ingress into the cabin/the roof 'space' A 'how to' write up would be good. This must be a job that has been tackled many times.

Thanx guys and gals

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:54 pm
by admin
When i do mine leave them in place and mask up around them, just need to be careful when painting.

Cant be bothered taking them off to do, i find i need to redo mine every 6 or so months to keep them looking good, im sure water would find a way... It always does!

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:50 pm
by Dolphin
My second screw on the port one was leaking. I couldn;t remove the screw, it screws into the ones on the deckhead inside. I just levered it up as best I could, injected Sikaflex into it and painted it. You then need to replug the holes with new wooden plugs.

Why would you go to all the trouble of removing them to just paint them??

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:08 pm
by storm petrel
I just varnish them in place as well. Never had water come in through them.

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:56 pm
by Killick69
Good info there. Guess I will just sand and varnish in place and run some Sikaflex around the spots where they contact the coach house roof.

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:11 am
by Dolphin
A word of warning, if you are going to Sikaflex them, use masking tape on the rails and the deck. I made one hell of a mess. Sikaflex sticks like sh 1 t to a mohair blanket!

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 4:51 pm
by Miker
I've done one in place and one off. The job on the one in place was OK I guess, but it was hard to sand properly. I also found it hard to get enough coats on, because there are only so many days you can get out to do it.

The one I took off and took home got a good clean sand and 7 coats over a week. It looks much, much better and has lasted a lot longer. 10 months and no sign of a blemish yet, using Feast and Watson exterior.

Michael

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:33 pm
by Killick69
The outside and inside rails are connected and the question I have is are they connected by nuts and bolts or are the connectors wood screws. If nuts and bolts are used, I am more likely to take apart and bring home. Are 'plugs' available or does one need to make them?

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:56 pm
by Shaun
Hi John,
I think they are screwed in from the exterior grab rails...through the cabin & liner...& into the interior grab rails.
If they are bolted you will find plugs on the interior ones also.
You can buy plugs, but quicker to make your own, unless you can readily buy them at WW etc.

I reckon if you end up taking them home to sand, you may end up mainly hand sanding anyway because of the intricate curved shape of them.
cheers

Re: Coachhouse roof grab rails

PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:02 pm
by Miker
As an addition to Shaun's post. Plugs are available at WW, in two sizes. If you want to make your own, you can buy plug cutters readily, just make sure they're cut from teak as well.

I splurged and bought a Ryobi battery powered mouse sander. Takes far less time and made it reasonably easy to do in situe, although the last little bit near the roof will need to be sanded carefully by hand.

That being said, it will give you a better finish taking them off and taking your time in the shed.

Michael