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Hi all,

Ive been noticing a bit of groaning coming from the rudder when ive been out lately, and she's getting heavier and heavier to turn..

Im going through the annual haul out in October and was considering having the shipwright look at this issue. Im guessing the bearings are starting to give, im pretty sure they'd never have been cleaned/replaced in the life of the boat (going on 30 years!).

Is this going to be a bigger than ben hur job? Im of the opinion if it aint broke dont fix it, but ,,, no doubt when it finally does it will be at the most inconvenient time/place

Im guessing it'd be a custom build job if they need replacing as i cant see there being a stock pile of such parts sitting around

Any thoughts appreciated

dan

Dan, I've not seen the bearings myself, but I'd be certain if they are any kind of roller or ball bearing that most bearing shops will sell them. If they're brass bushes, they'd more than likely have that as well. It's something you're not going to know unless you pull out the rudder shaft and have a look.

Michael.

Dan,

There are no bearings, ball or roller!

What you have to replace is the sleave at the top of the rudder post.

What you have to do now is this:-

Remove the rudder block in your cockpit and measure the shaft diameter.
Check condition of keys, replace if necessary. Should have no rounded corners.
Go to a large marine slip that deals in yatchts and get a new rudder sleave. They should know what you are talking about.
Get some 6mm SS 316 threaded rod x 1m long.(Can somebody confirm the size, as could not find an old bronze bolt)
10 x 6mm ss locking nuts.
tube of Silaflex

When you slip:-

Ensure that the rudder width can hang well clear of any cross beams on the slip.
Ensure that you have about a meter clear below the base of the keel. You should measure this before you go up and if necessary arrange for extra blocks to lift you higher on the lift.

On the slip:-
Go up and remove the rudder block ensuring you note where and what way the keys go.
Undo, grind off the heads of the bolts holding the bronze shoe at the bottom of the rudder.
Drive out the bolts, These were originally of bronze with the heads roved over.
Support the base of the rudder.

Now drop the rudder to the deck and manuover it out of its shaft.
Back up top and you will find where that sleave went, remove all traces of the old one.
Check the lenght of sleave required, reduce length if necessary. Check that it goes on the rudder shaft.
Replace sleave. You may have to drve it in. Check the tolerences.
This was where your problems were .
Clean the shaft of the rudder do any fibre glass work nescessary on rudder.
Note that the rudders are quiet light, if yours is very heavy it may have water in, you will see it running out for some time when you first go up. Drain and see above.

Lift the rudder back into place and support, in cockpit replace the rudder block.
Check for free movement of the rudder.
Hold rudder up and refix rudder shoe (in silaflex) with the ss threaded shaft. You can get bronze rod if you want to.

Hey! its all done for another 20 years or so

You can also find all sorts of information on rudders in previous post. (2007-8 I think.)

Ok, did I get the process right, any variations out there that I don't know of?

Good luck Dan, its not a big job.

Phillip
SEAKA

Just a small point and I think we touched on it once before.
The bronze bolts need to be suitable for marine use.
There is a lot of brass threaded rod available for electical use which is not at all suitable for salt water and will corrode quickly.
Stainless steel would be a good choice I think but the marine bronze would be even better.
Cheers,
Tom

Tom,

I agree, it is marine bronze rod which is roved over at each end.
There are supplyers that advertize in Cruising Helmsman and Afloat.

Phillip
SEAKA

Thanks everyone,

Sounds like a bit of a job, i may leave this to the pro's when she's hauled out.

cheers
dan

Remove the rudder block in your cockpit and measure the shaft diameter.
Check condition of keys, replace if necessary. Should have no rounded corners.

Go up and remove the rudder block ensuring you note where and what way the keys go.

Hi All,

I'm just posting this for my uncle who has a TopHat 25 MK3 in St.Kitts and is looking at replacing the rudder sleve as described by Phillip to combat some play he experiences with the rudder.
His question is how do you remove the bronze block from the top of the rudder shaft that the tiller is bolted to? It seems to just be pressed onto the shaft without any bolts holding it in place but I notice that in the quotes above you talk about 'keys' - what are these keys and how are they removed? I looked for the previous discussion you mention from 2007-8 but couldn't find anything as everything on this forum seems to only be 2009?

Thanks
John

John,

You will notice a slot in the side of the hole through the bronze block.

Down in the slot is a key which needs to be tapped down slightly to loosen the bronze block

Once the key is loose you should be able to wiggly the block off.

When you relace the key ensure that it has square corners and fits snuggly.
Check before replacing block.
If this is loose you will get movement on the shaft as you appear to have.

If this is all not clear get back to me.

Phillip
SAEKA