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Zen, and the art of diesel maintenance:

My late father was a marine engineer and he always told me that if you keep your wits about you, diesels were simple to work on and keep running. I try to channel my father's calm, reasoned, relaxed approach when I am playing 'twister' working on my shoehorned in, iron genoa.

After 7 years of owner maintenance and perfect performance, my Yanmar 2QM15 developed a hiccup about a month ago. I generally get Storm Petrel out to sea once a week and that requires the diesel to push us out of the serpentine opening of Brisbane Waters( NSW Central Coast). It is only possible to sail out or in when wind and tide conditions are perfect, which is rare and consequently a functioning auxiliary is a necessity.

So when my diesel started to run really rough, not wanting to idle until it warmed up, I was worried about it letting me down when I needed it to get past Half Tide Rocks on the way in and out. After going through all the usual checks of fuel, air filters, exhaust manifold, blocked air intake to fuel tank, dirty fuel etc. over the past month I was a bit stumped, until watching very closely when I started it yesterday and noticing the tiniest ooze of diesel from one of the valve holders on the high pressure side of the injector pump. I suspect as the engine warms up differential expansion between the copper O ring on the seal and the steel pump stops the leak and second injector starts squirting properly which enable the motor to run fine.

I will order a new seal and packing tomorrow and hopefully my 14hp Japanese clock will run like a metronome again.

Cheers,
Mark

PS Diesels are amazingly reliable but you sure do need to keep an eye on the fuel and fuel delivery.

Yep ! Mark , I'm at the stage I know to much and not enough,that I'm dangerous with diesel engines

Bear

Hi Mark, I had a 1gm10 for a little while and because it was broke when I got the boat I ended up learning lots about diesel repair. With the copper washers used for sealing the fuel delivery lines, I was surprised to find out that copper gets 'work hardened'. With being tightened and released the actual copper gets harder even though the washer itself still looks good. This means its capacity to properly seal decreases the more you might, for example, bleed the system with doing and undoing the bolts where the washers are. In my case, the motor had leaks in many places along the fuel line due to the previous owner never replacing the copper washers and they ended up being too hard to seal so he just screwed the bolts down even tighter, stripped one but never mind, he used a bit of glue to hold it in. And the others just leaked.

The good news is that old copper washers can be annealed to soften them. Just heat them cherry red in a burner then let them cool. Some people say you have to quench in water but does not make any difference. It can help get some gunk off the surface. Some say quenching makes the copper hard again but it does not as far as I know.

Here's a site that has some discussion about annealing and the other is a video.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=387726
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMLqlDSsQpA

So, even if you get new washers, if you have any trouble with them sealing, don't just trying screwing the bolt down harder, try annealing the washer. Makes a surprising difference.


cheers

troppo

Bear, I think I am at the same stage of diesel competence/incompetence...

Thanks for the tip Troppo. I will give it a go if the new O-ring gives me problems.

Cheers,
Mark

If you want to save the hassle of annealing, you can get various copper washers in little plastic packs at Repco. Ditto the benfit of changing the whole darned lot out, if you're already getting all dieselly and smelly on some other job.

Cheers, Graeme

Hi Mark i really hope that solves the problem for you as it sure is a pain and expense for the alternitives.
My new boat has a volvo D1 30 beautiful motor has just over 800 hours on (green death) the guy next to me with a North Shore 38 has the same motor with only 400 hrs to my amazement he says he is ripping it out and selling it has taken boat out to the hard stand motor is out he didnt muck around and is putting a electric motor in.
He fits solar panels to houses so has good supply of panels to keep it going so if you want a near new engine i know where there is one.

Bill,

That engine would not fit on the cabin floor of a Top Hat, but maybe then for water skiing it would do perfectly

Hi Phillip can see what you mean but they are the new generation motors much smaller in physical size

You're right Phillip,
I have a Volvo D1-13, When changing the oil the mechanic needs to take the throttle off to get to the filter because they are fitted from the side. You physically cannot get your hand onto the filter. I take the raw water hose off the pump and attack it from underneath with a filter spanner.
The Yanmars are serviced from the front.

Mr Bornfree your mate probably removed the engine to service the filter. I've often though it easier to take the motor out than to contort myself under the motor.

Greg.

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=10&image_id=127

Hi Greg very nice looking motor had an adventure doing my own oil change there was oil everywhere not looking forward to have to do it again