Step mast sit in

[Killick69]

Another 2 hours of scraping, hammering and whatever and there is now a gap on each side of the mast fore, aft. starboard and port. When I started the 4 "quadrands were blocked to about half height and the mast and step were in contact at four points. Please tell me that the mast should not touch the 4 sides of the step. The drain hole is clear and all 4 'quadrants' now drian via the one hole. Just by hitting the step with a hammer I was ableLE to di/lodge chunks of rust. My immediate concern is the area around the mast. I can scrape and paint the outer sections later. Also found the mast is pitted on starboard side. Will see what rotary wire brushes (small) I can find at Bunnings and others. Will then hit it with rust converter in spray bottle and flush/wipe with fresh water, followed by painting with rust converter aerosol (3 coats). Comments and suggestions welcome. Then will clean up the outside and finally put sikaflex around the step.

[storm petrel]

Sounds like you may need a new mast step when you next get the mast out. In the mean time, what you have done sounds fine. My mast touches each side of the inside of the square section of the step. I am not sure if not touching the step would be a problem. Perhaps someone with rigging knowledge on the site could enlighten us?

If not, you could try ringing David Rooke (Roospars Rigging) on 02 43 244 885. He is a great bloke and is an expert rigger who has replaced Tophat mast steps. He has helped me out on a couple of occasions with rigging issues.

Cheers,
Mark

[Tales]

Tales had all the problems you mentioned but I put off major work until I lifted the mast.

The original drain hole was blocked by a piece of 1/2" ply under the foot of the mast.

The foot of the mast was also full of mud.

When I removed the step, I had it sandblasted to see what I had left and it was sound except for the sides which were reduced in thickness near the welds.

I cut them out and fitted new pieces running the welds all the way around to seal them.

Galvanizing then painting with epoxy primer, undercoat and polyurethane top coat finished it off.

Instead of the plywood piece I made up a plastic one (bread board material!) shaped as shown in the pic so it will drain completely (grooves to the bottom).

Making two at a time is easy as you can drill the grooves down the join if you clamp them together.
I have a spare one if any one needs it!

All the best,

Tom

[adrian263]

hi there if you need a mast step i have a steel one on the boat im dismantleing let me know if you need it

[Killick69]

Tom, that mast step looks real good. It looks like the mast is not touching the step on the sides. Am I right in saying this? Yesterday in blowing conditions spent a few more hours scaping and drilling. Now ready to do the 'rust conversion', then clean with metho, then paint. I called Central Coast Marine Installation, the company that used to make steps for Top Hats, but they no longer make them and could not tell me who does. When I slip the boat sometime down the track, might have to get a new step. The present step will need a lot of work at that stage and from time and cost point a new step might be the go. It looks like there is a thin sheet of Aluminium under the mast step. It is really thing maybe quarter millimetre thick. It is just fractionally bigger than the step and bends up on the sides where the sealant sits between coachhouse roof and the bottom of the step. Has anyone else come across this. I am also concerned that the mast is badly pitted on the sides, where it was in contact with the rusting step. There is no longer contact, but a 2 mm gap.

Tom, I assume the oval cut out in the piece you made is where the foot of the mast fits through. When fitted do the 4 holes (half holes) you drilled face up or down? I would be interested in getting the spare one from you. Where are you located? I am in Sydney. let me know how much you want for it. Post is probably the go.

[Shaun]

John, now you've got the water running out & are treating/painting the metal, should be ok till you lift the mast to replace rigging. If you feel the current mast step is beyond rescue, Philip(Seaka) has an aluminium mast step, it stills looks brand new but would be over 10 yrs old i reckon, it was on his boat when he bought it, but from memory he has some info on where they can be sourced, phil?.
Seaka is a Mk1, im wondering if the different Mk's would need different mast steps, if the forward sloping angle of the cabin roof is different on the various Mk's??
I hadn't noticed the pitting in the mast, you may not be able to assess the extent of it till you lift the mast, I wonder if its bad....could you cut 5 inches off the base?, then have the new rigging made & adjusted to suit?
cheers
Shaun

[bearmcnally]

hi Guys


The camber (spell check please )/ slope should be the same for all marks ? 2and 3 Not Mk 1s as we all know the original is the best As the camber follows the same line as the coachouse if you get my drift the camber is the same but it spreads out from front of the cabin to the back of the cabin If i'm wroooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggg or mistakkkkkkkkkkkkennnnnnnn I still think ? this can be easliy fixed I think ?


regards Bear

[Killick69]

Aluminium would be the way to go for mast step (no galvanic reaction, whereas zinc and aluminium don't make good bedfellows). Shaun, that's exactly what I was thinking might have to lose a few inches off my mast (ouch). Might try to take a photo of the pitting on the mast. Guess there is litle chance of a MK0 mast step fitting a make 3.

[storm petrel]

Provided you have the previous fitting in tact(carefully removed), a metal fabricator should have no trouble knocking up a copy in aluminium. It might cost a bit as it is a 'one off' but it should not be a problem for someone who knows what they are doing. Cutting, bending and welding 1/4-3/8th inch plate is all in a days work for those guys.

Cheers,
Mark

[Tales]

My experience is that the original product was well made and when sandblasted it was quite recoverable.

On the boat it did look pretty bad though and I did all the soul searching that you are doing now.

I am a fitter and turner and fabricating this sort of item is just a routine job but it was far easier to recondition the old one than make one up from scratch.

The mast, if it is the original Sheerline is quite robust and many would say oversize so a bit of pitting may not be a problem (think about all the holes and slots cut in your mast already). You can have a rigger assess it when you remove it down the track.

The oval hole in the plastic piece I made matches the hole in the mast foot (fitted into the mast at the bottom) and the holes/grooves go to the bottom so that the thing can drain completely.

When the time comes call me if you need it 0419 161201.

Cheers,

Tom