Buying a Top Hat

[Shaun]

From: Kym (Original Message) Sent: 1/12/2002 9:18 PM
Hi, I'm getting back into sailing after a long absence. I've just about settled on a Top Hat for local gulf sailing here in South Australia. I see plenty of Top Hats advertised nationally, but none here.

Any advice from experienced owners about what to look for in a used Top Hat, and questions I should ask interstate brokers who have some for sale? Any particular weaknesses or clues that the boat might have some problems? I'm interested in a boat with an inboard.

Kym


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Recommend Message 2 of 8 in Discussion

From: shaun_--_ Sent: 10/12/2002 11:06 PM
hi kym,
i dont have any top hat specific info for you,as i dont own one(yet!),but ive also decided to purchase a Top Hat,but have not been able to find much info on them.

heres a link to a site that you may find interesting,it contains a lot of info about purchasing a cruising yacht, it is particually helpful to make a checklist before going to look at the boat,so you dont forget anything.
http://www.mahina.com/cruise

this is a page thats part of the 'NSW coastal cruising club' website, they do favorably mention the Top Hat, http://www.users.bigpond.com/coastalcru ... uising.htm

good luck & let us know how you go
shaun

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Recommend Message 3 of 8 in Discussion

From: Glenn Sent: 25/12/2002 6:51 PM
Kym,

I'm not being exhaustive by any means, but here's a couple of points from experience with my Top Hat:

1. If you're looking at a cockpit well mounted outboard, (which I settled for although I too wanted a diesel), make sure the well is long enough fore to aft to accept a new motor. Ours had an old 9.9 HP Evinrude which was very reliable at letting us down every second trip without fail, generally when arriving back at the marina. All present-day outboards over 6HP are physically too big to fit in the existing well. We had to get a frame made off the transom to accomodate a new motor, at about $600. (We chose a Honda 15HP with electric start which has been clean, quiet and faultless)

2. I get water in the front Vee berth at the sides close to the bulkhead between the berth and the galley when I get water over the bows in rough weather. I'd suggest hosing the toe rail and having a good look below. I'm going to remove the toe rail on mine and check the hull deck join when I next slip it. The toe rail, (Aluminium extrusion) has been refitted a couple of times with short self tapping screws which are probably the cause).

3. Check the rudder bearings - I had to get a new bottom one made, about $60.

4. check the front hatch seal with a good hosing. The hatch cover is an irregular shape and mine has become a poor fit - grinding some fibreglass off some places and adding some in others has alleviated the problem, coupled with a new seal made from a piece of refrigeration tubing.

5. Adding a headsail roller furler, (Reefurl) made a huge difference to us as novices in sail handling in rough weather.

Hope this is helpful,

Glenn


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From: SmokingMischief Sent: 21/08/2003 12:08 AM
Hi, we purchased a Top Hat in South Australia over 3 years ago but I have not seen one for sale since, nor do I know of any other TH for sale here. We purchased ours privately and the previous owner who had it for over 10 years had it trucked over from the eastern states. They are definately worth buying, we wouldn't trade ours for anything else, they are extremely seaworthy (we've tested that one out), comfortable (excellent for 2 people) and we always feel safe and stable (which is a comment which a lot of visitors have said). Good luck with your search and stick with the Top Hat, you won't regret it.
Regards
Shaz, Dang and Buster the sailing dog

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Recommend Message 5 of 8 in Discussion

From: whitsundaysun Sent: 24/08/2003 2:33 PM
Kym
I recently did the same as you after long absence from sailing and purchased a Top Hat. generally of all the ones I looked at they are a pretty sturdy boat, could find no real inherrant problems. A few people have mentioned problems with the rudder assembly bushes, leaking. With inboard, you will obviously need to get as much history as possible, likewise for the boat itself. My recommendation is to scour the inter net on boatpoint, write to agents and ask for full details and pics, then when you feel you have found the right one for you, get on a plane and view it. After that select your own surveyor to have checked out. I used Southern Cross Boat Transport to bring boat from Brisbane to Mackay, they were excellent.
Good Luck

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Recommend Message 6 of 8 in Discussion

From: Seagullman Sent: 24/08/2003 6:39 PM
Hi,

Most boats in Pittwater seem to be outboard powered, boats with inboards seen to be $5000 plus dearer, not surprising as a GM10 installed is aroung $13,000.

I have a Mark 0 (cold moulded timber), which up till now had a Vire 7hp two stroke petrol inboard. I recently removed the motor to overhaul it and seeing the cabin space it used, have decided to go down the outboard track. Ariel has a well offset to Stb because of the keel.

Looking at the glass boats moored near me in Pittwater, they mostly have a well the full width of the aft section of the cockpit, although a couple have transom cut outs for mounting the motor.

Is an 8hp long shaft the correct size?

Regards,

Devon Jones

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Recommend Message 7 of 8 in Discussion

From: John Sent: 25/08/2003 3:09 PM
Hi Devon

My MK2 has a 8hp long shaft Mariner in a well, works well. It is one of the ones on Pittwater. It has a prop that is designed for small yachts that I think is called a saildrive (or similar) and works well in forward or reverse.

regards
John





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Recommend Message 8 of 8 in Discussion

From: Rattlenhum3 Sent: 8/09/2003 3:20 AM
Kym.
Look under the deck at the chain plates for strain and lifting at the bulk head area.
it would be advisable to increase the size of the backing plates . This was my only problem when I baught my Mark 2a.