Replacing a propshaft bearing- is it a hard job

[RIPPLE TOO]

Hi everyone, I thought it about time for my first post, as the rumbling noise frome the shaft and vibration is getting a little unnerving . Not quite sure how to attack this problem as the boatyard said may have to remove motor and draw the shaft out via the cabin, a Sole 13hp ( you can imagine what I thought about that ) Has anyone had to do this? I realise I will have to remove rudder as is directly behind prop nut, but was hoping that was all, an idicative price would also be much appreciated so I know how many treasure chests I have to dig up Attached is a photo of the prop and rudder assy ps. Tried to make it to the gathering at the CYC but shyte happened and couldn't make it, maybe next time. Cheers Kevo 'n' Lissy

[bearmcnally]

Hi Guys

Just had Egret II motor out and tail shaft and bearing etc .
It's not a hard job but if you have never done it before and don't have the gear it could be difficult .Removing the motor is easy .Removing prop from shaft needs heat on prop a hit with a hammar .

[bearmcnally]

If you decide you want to give it a go, I can post a step by step on how to do it .Oh you don't need to remove your rudder for this exercise But if you do go ahead it could pay to unbolt everything before slipping that is if you are going to use a public /commecial slips to save time and money.



Regards Bear

[Phillip]

Kevo 'n' Lissy,

Just a thought, but is your shaft inline with your motor as a missalinement will cause bad vibrations.

Do you have heaps of water coming in when running the shaft?

Phillip
SEAKA

[mmts]

Hmmm, this takes me back, kinda hurt the hip pocket too.

I had a similar issue with engine vibration myself. My Top hat has a 10hp volvo MD1B with the shaft exiting right astern. The engine sat on resilient mounts in a box steel cradle which was hard bolted to bearers in the hull, certainly not an ideal arrangement. Everything was loose and required tightening, I had the local mechanic with the universal jointed limbs tighten everything up for me. This seemed to improve the vibration somewhat, unfortunately what it also revealed was a dangerously leaking stern tube. With a pending road trip to Melbourne and very little chance of resolving the issue myself it was back to the mechanic. I was slowly sinking.

Engine was removed, propellor removed with a little bit of heat and gentle persuasion then the shaft and stern tube removed. What had happened was the bolts holding the stern tube in place had actually corroded thru, the only thing between the ocean and the bilge was a thin bead of sikaflex. Herein commenced the expensive task of installing new engine beds, polyflex engine mounts and new stern tube. Needless to say I'm now very happy with the whole installation and no longer in danger of sinking.

I agree with Bear, try and do as much as you can yourself whilst still in the water.....disconnect everything, remembering to note the position of everything you move.......don't want to be paying $90 an hour for someone to undo a difficult bolt. At the end of the day, don't take shortcuts, spend the money, then have piece of mind that the job is done properly

So what did it cost ??? the mechanics bill alone was just under $5k then add the shipwright and the hardstanding....it hurts too much to say

Regards

[Sombrero]

Hi Mark, just when I was wishing I had a little diesel thumping away in my bilge! It sounds like one solution would be to take out the shaft and put a cork in the hole and hang an outboard on the back and keep the change in the bank! SORRY, I could not resist putting in a plug for myself and my outboard mates.
"Sombrero" John.S

[RIPPLE TOO]

Thanks for the replies, Bear, phillip,Mark and John, sounds like 4 of the 12 appostles but was hoping for a better outcome ie not remove motor, realignment of shaft and motor is something I don't fancy. Also I really do need to have a look at the rudder post and seals anyhow. Might just have to use it as an absolute water front condo while I estrange some cash from my bank account, and thanks for the outboard comment, I'll file it with my other "To be reviewed after everything else fails" folder Thanks guys I really do appreciate your comments. Kev 'n' Liss

[bearmcnally]

Hi guys

Iv'e been thinking about your problem Phillip might have a point . Have you checked to make sure your engine mounts are tight , and the engine isn't out of alignment .If the bearing needs replacing and you want to do it yourself and you have a front yard why not take the boat home next winter and give her an overhaul ,dopping the stick is easy and Porta Slip will take it home for you . Seriously the cost of replacing the bearing isn't exspensive and not difficult .Even if the stern tube needs replacing this is not hard,or a tricky job. If you ring Porter Props and give them a shaft dia I'm pretty sure they make you a new stern tube etc . they also sell the bearing tube.


Regards Bear

RE. OUTBOARDS Vs INBOARDS Last time I took a wave over the stern I was glad I had an inboard

[mmts]

John,

I certainly considered the option of leaving the engine out and putting a cork in the hole. The mechanic even suggested it, he had a swwet 9.9hp 4 stroke he would let me have for a few hundred dollars, and being a MK1 a few mods to the transom would have seen a nice installation. But as they say, a fool and his money are easily parted. Apart from the piece of mind with the diesel, hopefully one day when I sell, having a diesel will be more appealing to a potential purchaser.