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The hatch over the v berth is set up in a strange way. Perhaps this is the way ti is done on all or on some other Top Hats.
The hatch sits almost perfectly square in the opening when closed, but "skews' when one opens it and rests it against the mast.
The reason is the 2 hinges are not aligned in that one sits further forward than the other. I would expect the hinge point (i.e the middle of the hinge when laid out flat) would be about midway between the moving hatch and the coachhouse roof (half the hinge on the moving bit and the other half on the fixed bit). One hinge is spread about equally between hatch and coach house roof and the other is set forward/aft (I can't remember which it is).

This seems to be the way it was done originally. If I decide to 'straighten it all up', I would need to re-fit one of the hinges. My concern is that I do not know how the bolts/self tapping screws or whatever are secured in the coach house roof. The part of the hinge on the hatch is easy, as it is secured by nuts and bolts. If I loosen the bolts on the coachhouse roof and the hidden nuts (if nuts are used) are not epoxied in, they will be lost. The boat has a liner on the inside.

Any help much appreciated, as I will be working on the hatch in the near future. I need to replace the perspex, which is in bad shape and will paint the hatch at the same time. I have cut and drilled a piece of polycarbonate to replace the perspex. It remains to be seen whether the polycarbonate will take the curve. I have had it clamped for more than a year to induce curvature, but as soon as I release the leverage, it lays flat.

Killick69 wrote:The hatch over the v berth is set up in a strange way. Perhaps this is the way ti is done on all or on some other Top Hats.
The hatch sits almost perfectly square in the opening when closed, but "skews' when one opens it and rests it against the mast.........

This seems to be the way it was done originally. If I decide to 'straighten it all up!.......

I remember looking at that hatch myself, with the same intention of straightening it up, but came to the conclusion that nothing else is square on a yacht , and it sits perfectly when closed(which is the important aspect), I didn't worry any further with it.
I think screws should be enough to hold a curve in the Perspex, as long as it's not too thick.
Cheers

You can induce a curve in perspex by heat. Use a heat gun, but don't whatever you do go too close or hold it in the one spot for too long. Some cut to size places will bend the panel for you when you buy it, if you know what the arc of the curve is.

Just take care not to set the curve in the wrong arc, otherwise it won't seal on the face correctly.

3mm will be easy to bend, with a bit of heat. 4mm is a bit thick unless you have the right equipment. 5mm .... perhaps give it to a pro.

Good information there. Thanks guys. I have not yet fitted the polycarbonate over the hatch. I want to paint the hatch prior to fitting (or attempting) the fit. Shaun, you will no doubt recall there is some green paint showing under the perspex. I want to paint the hatch before fitting the polycarbonate. This will be the start of painting the superstructure of Night Cap. I am not keen on using 2 pack paints and have decided to go with International's Toplac (single pack). I have used the Norglass single pack on the strip under the toe rail and found it does not weather well. I get the impression Toplac is better. I intend painting the whole cabin top, cockpit and deck white.
Toplac comes in 2 white variants, namely White and Snow White. Has anyone used either of these? I am concerned that Snow White might attract the dwarfs. No, the concern is that it might be too glary with such a large expanse in white. The colour chart is not good and the colour indicators on the cans are equally poor and totally different from the colour charts.

Yes I have used Toplac 1 pack Snow White on my deck.

Had to use this as I had attempted to paint with one pack previously and according to my shipwright I did a lousy job.
Buffs up shiny and can be scrubbed with Gumption, Jif and the Aldi alternative which my shipwright prefers.
Gloss parts are slippery.

To solve the slippery problem we sprinkled coarse sugar on the wet paint then washed off when dry.
Did this on all the 'non slip' rough areas.

On the glossy bits that I needed non slip - at the bow and at the stern - Stick on non slip tape.
Need the really, REALLY, rough stuff. The smooth tape is useless.

Wet glossy Toplac is like wet glass.

My hull above the water line was painted professionally with 2 pack.
Professionals much prefer 2 pack.

Don't use the brightest white!

I used a Norglass white in the cabin and had to repaint in another colour [cream] as It was tOOOOO bright!!

Diana, what you say about Toplac being slippery is very interesting. The slip factor is very important. I have found my Burke sailing shoes (carefully chosen) seem to be more slip prone than when I go barefoot. Unfortunately bare feet are more likely to be hurt.I would hate to paint my boat and find it becomes more slippery.

Phillip your comments about white being too bright brings me back to an idea I had earlier. I had thought of using deck paint, the non-slip stuff for the whole of the superstructure. What do you guys and gal(s) think? it seems the anti-slip paint is easier to apply and is more durable than say Toplac. I could not find it on the intenet tonight, but from memory there was a Kiwi anti-slip paint that looked really good (no primer and single coat only). I think the white anti-slip paint will be less glary, because it is not quite as smooth a surface. If all the deck areas and all of the cockpit are done in anti-slip it will look OK? Will the cabin top look OK in antislip paint??? I would be happy to have the cabin top less slippery, as recently when stepping up onto the wet cabin top to go to the mast I stepped on the smooth part and nearly came a cropper.

Would it work to have the combing (not sure what correct terminology is), the part that holds foresail winches/part where one would rest one's hand when sitting in the cockpit and stretching one's arms out painted with anti-slip/non-slip paint?

If I used non-slip paint, it will not be as glossy, so there should be 2 benefits. My poor painting skills will be masked. Glare should be lower.
Cheers, John

The Kiwi product referred to in my previous post is Kiwigrip, available from Whitworths. Look pretty good. There is no aggregate in it, but one gets a textured surface using a roller, which is supplied with the Kiwigrip. The thickness of coating and degree of texture can be varied. Coating can be 2 to 3mm thick. Single coat, water based and no primer needed, also easy surface prep and easy re-coat/repair.
They. say 4 litres should do a 30ft boat and it is about $50/l. Sample swatches are available and I will probably send away fro some.

Hi John,

When I painted I used 'non slip paint' all over, as you suggested and found it basically useless.
All it did was hold dirt, look dull, dirty and remained slippery.

Come along to the Lake Macquarie catch up and take a look at what others have done and see what works for you.

Diana