Mk1 observation
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:15 pm
From: ArkingCrow (Original Message) Sent: 20/08/2008 04:27
Hello folks
I am a fairly new owner of a Mk1 Top Hat which was launched 4th Dec 1969 and I imagine from that date, it would be a Baker Built version.
One thing I have noticed but I may be slightly cross-eyed, is that the starboard freeboard is slightly higher than the port side. When I had it re-rigged, the stays were made of equal length and on re-installation into the boat the mast assumed a slight port lean on it.
I may have to adjust the rigging screws to rectify the lean. The anomoly doesn't worry me but I was wondering if any other Mk! Top Hat owners have noticed the same thing.
Another thing, I am contemplating removing the mast in the next 12 months or so to remove the galvanised beam on which it sits. I intend to have it looked at by an experienced metal worker for structural integrity and then have it re-galvanised or hot dip galvanised.
Does anyone have any experience in having this done or are there better ways to treat the metal these days without having it hot dip galvanised?
I must say, it has lasted nearly 40 years so far and another hot-dip would probably well and truly see me out.
Austin
Sintra II
---------------------------------------
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Recommend Delete Message 2 of 5 in Discussion
From: TalesS435 Sent: 21/08/2008 02:52
Austin,
I have just got my mast base back from the galvanizers this week!
Removed it because of serious corrosion in the welded side plates which form the box into which the mast sits.
The drain hole in one side plate was blocked so water had been building up for many years prior to my ownership.
When the mast was removed, a lot of rusty water flowed out and it seems that it came from inside the mast!
Beneath the mast was a piece of 1/2" plywood (which blocked the drain hole in the side plate) but it had no provision for draining any water which might come down the mast.
I welded in new side plates with the bottom corners cut out and will make up a sturdy plastic spacer with drain channels cut in it to assist drainage from the mast.
Have just been searching on the web for paint treatment of galvanized steel and found some International epoxy etch primer, epoxy undercoat and polyurethane topcoat.
Would like to hear from anyone else who has done a similar job.
Cheers,
Tom
--------------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 3 of 5 in Discussion
From: coldmoulded Sent: 21/08/2008 13:35
gday Austin
i have a cold moulded tophat circa 1964 which i have basically rebuilt from the keel up. ie new transom, stern post , cabin top fore peak, cock pit, inboard, etc etc etc. the entire boat is now epoxy encapsulated with dynel and all glue joins and laminations are done with epoxy.
i noticed the same thing as you with the mast step, that the last 44 years had not affected the steel at all apart from directly under the timber mast where someone had put a piece of ply for whatever reason which acted a bit like a sponge and kept that area wet. it stood up surprisingly well though and did not need any repairs. being a bit prudent meant that i decided to get it re - galvanised any way. hot dipped for 90 dollars. of course its cheaper to put it in with something else eg anchor chain, anchor as the minimum cost is $120 for anything under 80 kg.
i imagine that the only place you should be concerned about is directly under the mast.
cheerio
---------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 4 of 5 in Discussion
From: ArkingCrow Sent: 25/08/2008 05:13
Hello again folks,
Thank you Tom for sharing your experience with your mast base. I may need to do as you have done whereby you welded some new side plates into it. I noticed when the rigger re-installed my mast he drilled a 1/8 inch hole to allow the water to drain away. My mast was sitting on a thick piece of rubbery matting which sort of did the job but there seemed to be no drain holes anywhere in the box that encapsulates the mast before this was done.
Your suggestion of etch priming, epoxy undercoating and polyurethane topcoat sounds a good one but I will do as "coldmoulded" has suggested as well and that is get it hot dip galvanised first before I paint it. Should be schmick for a good time to come with the double treatment.
Coldmoulded, it sounds like you have done a fantastic job on your boat. A labour of love no doubt and a boat now with a very long life ahead of it. It was a couple of cold moulded Top Hats here in Hobart that originally aroused my interest in these lovely boats. Both are kept in good condition and one still races and is a hard boat to beat, especially in hard weather.
Thank you both for your thoughts and help. It is great having a forum like this to share knowledge and get to know what is happening around the traps.
Cheers for now,
Austin
Sintra II
---------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 5 of 5 in Discussion
From: TalesS435 Sent: 25/08/2008 22:05
Hi Austin,
I had the mast step sandblasted first to reveal how much metal was actually still present.
The side plates were diminished to half their thickness so I cut them out and welded in new ones with the corners cut out for drainage (15mm X 45 degrees).
Then I had it galvanized.
The surface of galvanized steel is not good for paint to stick onto hence the etch primer which is supposed to bite into the surface a bit.
I have just put on the second coat of epoxy primer - over the etch primer.
Epoxy does not stand up well in sunlight so I will put on a finish coat of polyurethane.
Cheers,
Tom (Tales)
Hello folks
I am a fairly new owner of a Mk1 Top Hat which was launched 4th Dec 1969 and I imagine from that date, it would be a Baker Built version.
One thing I have noticed but I may be slightly cross-eyed, is that the starboard freeboard is slightly higher than the port side. When I had it re-rigged, the stays were made of equal length and on re-installation into the boat the mast assumed a slight port lean on it.
I may have to adjust the rigging screws to rectify the lean. The anomoly doesn't worry me but I was wondering if any other Mk! Top Hat owners have noticed the same thing.
Another thing, I am contemplating removing the mast in the next 12 months or so to remove the galvanised beam on which it sits. I intend to have it looked at by an experienced metal worker for structural integrity and then have it re-galvanised or hot dip galvanised.
Does anyone have any experience in having this done or are there better ways to treat the metal these days without having it hot dip galvanised?
I must say, it has lasted nearly 40 years so far and another hot-dip would probably well and truly see me out.
Austin
Sintra II
---------------------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 2 of 5 in Discussion
From: TalesS435 Sent: 21/08/2008 02:52
Austin,
I have just got my mast base back from the galvanizers this week!
Removed it because of serious corrosion in the welded side plates which form the box into which the mast sits.
The drain hole in one side plate was blocked so water had been building up for many years prior to my ownership.
When the mast was removed, a lot of rusty water flowed out and it seems that it came from inside the mast!
Beneath the mast was a piece of 1/2" plywood (which blocked the drain hole in the side plate) but it had no provision for draining any water which might come down the mast.
I welded in new side plates with the bottom corners cut out and will make up a sturdy plastic spacer with drain channels cut in it to assist drainage from the mast.
Have just been searching on the web for paint treatment of galvanized steel and found some International epoxy etch primer, epoxy undercoat and polyurethane topcoat.
Would like to hear from anyone else who has done a similar job.
Cheers,
Tom
--------------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 3 of 5 in Discussion
From: coldmoulded Sent: 21/08/2008 13:35
gday Austin
i have a cold moulded tophat circa 1964 which i have basically rebuilt from the keel up. ie new transom, stern post , cabin top fore peak, cock pit, inboard, etc etc etc. the entire boat is now epoxy encapsulated with dynel and all glue joins and laminations are done with epoxy.
i noticed the same thing as you with the mast step, that the last 44 years had not affected the steel at all apart from directly under the timber mast where someone had put a piece of ply for whatever reason which acted a bit like a sponge and kept that area wet. it stood up surprisingly well though and did not need any repairs. being a bit prudent meant that i decided to get it re - galvanised any way. hot dipped for 90 dollars. of course its cheaper to put it in with something else eg anchor chain, anchor as the minimum cost is $120 for anything under 80 kg.
i imagine that the only place you should be concerned about is directly under the mast.
cheerio
---------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 4 of 5 in Discussion
From: ArkingCrow Sent: 25/08/2008 05:13
Hello again folks,
Thank you Tom for sharing your experience with your mast base. I may need to do as you have done whereby you welded some new side plates into it. I noticed when the rigger re-installed my mast he drilled a 1/8 inch hole to allow the water to drain away. My mast was sitting on a thick piece of rubbery matting which sort of did the job but there seemed to be no drain holes anywhere in the box that encapsulates the mast before this was done.
Your suggestion of etch priming, epoxy undercoating and polyurethane topcoat sounds a good one but I will do as "coldmoulded" has suggested as well and that is get it hot dip galvanised first before I paint it. Should be schmick for a good time to come with the double treatment.
Coldmoulded, it sounds like you have done a fantastic job on your boat. A labour of love no doubt and a boat now with a very long life ahead of it. It was a couple of cold moulded Top Hats here in Hobart that originally aroused my interest in these lovely boats. Both are kept in good condition and one still races and is a hard boat to beat, especially in hard weather.
Thank you both for your thoughts and help. It is great having a forum like this to share knowledge and get to know what is happening around the traps.
Cheers for now,
Austin
Sintra II
---------------------------
Reply
Recommend Delete Message 5 of 5 in Discussion
From: TalesS435 Sent: 25/08/2008 22:05
Hi Austin,
I had the mast step sandblasted first to reveal how much metal was actually still present.
The side plates were diminished to half their thickness so I cut them out and welded in new ones with the corners cut out for drainage (15mm X 45 degrees).
Then I had it galvanized.
The surface of galvanized steel is not good for paint to stick onto hence the etch primer which is supposed to bite into the surface a bit.
I have just put on the second coat of epoxy primer - over the etch primer.
Epoxy does not stand up well in sunlight so I will put on a finish coat of polyurethane.
Cheers,
Tom (Tales)